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Sorry, Take a screwdriver to all of the connections, making sure they are snug. With the power cycles, and all the vibration, they can loosen with time, which will only get worse as they develop more resistance at the connection, causing even more heat and resistance. There have been pictures posted ...

Rostock V2? If you haven't already, I would take a screwdriver to the heater connections on the RamBo board.

So it goes back to Gene's original suggestion, slow down the print speed, or raise the temperature of the hotend. It really sounds like the heater isn't able to keep up.

Arduino: 1.8.19 may be to new of a version,,,,, try version 1.6.0 instead?

Your issues with the filament sounds like you're dealing with old, wet PLA. I'm assuming the filament came with the printer?

The advantage to the other psu is the higher voltage out put,,, 13.7 volts I think? and there's normally a potentiometer that you can easily adjust the voltage up a little higher. Computer psu are normally locked to 12 volts,,, that extra volt or so does make a difference.

If you haven't, I'd check the connectors on the board. https://forum.seemecnc.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=11656&p=103602&hilit=burnt+connectors&sid=3563b1bbb518a9cd15dab8570deb3eef#p103602 The upgraded powersupply I meant was ditching the ATX and using a Meanwell, or similar powersupply. Like ...

Your next upgrade should be a power supply upgrade, That will help with keeping the hotend and bed temperatures stable, and also get up to temperature faster. Check the connections for both at the RamBo board, make sure the screws are tighten, as they can loosen with all of the heat cycles.

Here's a possible solution for increasing your flow rate. https://www.bondtech.se/2021/10/15/wher ... dtech-cht/

For normal printing, It may not be recommended to use the jet nozzle. You want to run a high volume of filament through your hotend, so I don't see a problem with it. I would instead try to install a volcano heatblock to the se300 and be done. However. If you are after faster print speeds to ...

Who said you can't run the Jet Nozzle? it may not be recommended because of the potential for clogging, but if you're pushing the pla through the hotend fast enough, it shouldn't be a problem.

And yeah, you can increase the current, But the gain most likely would be negligible, and most likely burn up the extruder motor. How warm is it getting now?

The other issue I see is the bowden tube. your other printer has the filament drive on the hotend itself, where as the Artemis is remote. No matter what you do to the bowden tube, the more force you put on the filament is going to increase the friction between the tube and filament itself. You have ...

Your limitation is the hotend, An E3D volcano is what would really make a difference for you.

How original is your V2? Are you still using the same aluminum U joints? What about the carriages?

Can't say that arguing with yourself on a forum is bad either,,,,,, However, when you start interrupting yourself,,,,

It appears that you have the V1, Myself I have the V2, PID tuning was only used for adjusting the hoteend, and yes, delta geometry makes calibrating the axis travels a totally different animal. If you download the pdf manual for the V1, from the download page, and go about it as if you're building ...

I see that the forum is adding trash to links to make them inoperable,,,,,, This place has turned into a ghost town. I am surprised that GeneB hasn't popped in, as he had written most of the manuals. Now that you found the SD slot, try a long print with using that,,,, If It still shuts down, I would ...

Here's where you should be able to find a manual to determine what you have,,,, and if it's rocking the original RamBo board, where the sd card slot is located. https://www.seemecnc.com/pages/downloads

Issue C, I assume you were printing the file from your PC, not the SD card? If that's the case, load the file onto the SD card and try again. Your PC may have went into some sort of power saving mode, and interrupted the print.

It would be a "M" code, or a "G" code. Could you do a copy/paste of the first 10 or so lines of one of the problem files?

perhaps " M140 S0"

I've had it happen a few times. On one, I just filled the divots with JB weld, and then put a sheet of PEI over it.

It does not appear to do Arc fitting to stl files, It will generate G2s when using spherical infill. It's still early yet. MeshCAM figured out how to do that, but it did take a few versions before Robert figured it out.