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Or is there any way i can check the thermal fuse if its broken?

is there anything in the repetier code that should be changed with define printer 2 (rostock max v2) and the new he280 hotend?

so i took the extruder apart and searched and measured. the heater is 4 ohms, all leads are properly connected and there is a signal all the way from the rambo to the heater. i have triple checked the two small smd fuses, and the one big 15amp fuse on the rambo. They are working. Everything should w...

Where can i see if the thermal fuse is out?

Is it the same heater cartridge for the old extruder as the new one? I have a spare kit from the old one laying around

Good idea, i measured 11.4V DC over the solder leads on the board to the heater when it was on.

For the record, here is my solution to the connector for the HE280. The HE280 was made with a big fault, no connector with screws or any other way of securing it to the extruder. A moving head will always put stress on the connector over time. I removed the cable shrimp, and put a new one on the con...

Yes, same thing from the lcd panel and repetier. No heat coming from the heater. Checked it a bunch of times. The red led light turns on both on the rambo board and the he280 when the extruder should be warming up, so there is no bad connections on the cables going to the extruder. Also doublechecke...

After some time trying to preheat, the error message is the default one

attached a screenshot of repetier host and the termistor reads the temperature right.

I made a zip tie mount in the plastics below the plug by gently drilling a tiny hole for a zip tie and that seemed to work fine. Still new problems pop up. Now the he280 will not heat up when i choose heat or preheat. After some time i get the def message. I have double checked all the wiring with a...

i get a 108k ohm when i measure mine unplugged. is that broken then? I get the def on the printer as well when heating extruder.

I have the same problem and as the connector doesnt have a locking pin, or any other way of properly locking to the extruder this will fail for all users of the he280 at some point.

Lets beg for a solution to cable tie the connector to the extruder somehow!

Great! Didnt know how i missed that. Thank you. Still havent found a solution for properly connecting the he280 connector and make sure it doesnt fall out during print or calibration. I tried with zip-ties around one of the extruder legs, but that only keeps it half in place. Anybody found a good so...

Aha! Thank you! Do you know what printer number the v2 is in the repetier configuration.h ?

It only says that rostock max is number 5 on v3. not what v2 is

I will get back on the other stuff you suggested. The reason for upgrading anything was that the old Extruder got fried when i used octopi a while ago, so i had do order a new one. Then the ATX power supply stopped working, so i had do upgrade that. When extruder number two failed, i had hopes that ...

Trouble upgrading rostock max V2 to V3. Hi, i have switched to HE280, new power supply, new ezrstruder, new ballmount arms, new cheapskates and everything electronic/hardware is proper connected and is alive. -Still i have super trouble using auto probe calibration script, first time i run it it jus...

Thank you for the replies. Looks like this was the case. Worked better with more infill and more top layers

Hi, i have a Rostock max V2 and i am using Repetier V1.03. I have started using Cura engine with default printer settings and 10 % infill, and around 55mm/s speed setting. ¨ 2mm layer height. adhesion type: none supporttype: none PLA All my top layers now seem to go a bit like this with holes in top...

Thank you! Didnt even think of checking thingiverse this time

Hi guys. I accidentally broke off my filament spool holder arm for the Rostock max v2 when i carried it through a door. If i could get the lasercut model dxf working, i could have made a new part on the 3d printer but i cant seem to get the rostcock max v2 lasercut dxf working in either solidworks 2...

Hi, cooling fan works. Not kysan motors. Wantai or something. Took the advice and thightened up the drive belts, noticed that one of the belts had made a small amount of plastic falloff (plastic dust) from top of one of the drive belts. so it was probably not horisontal at top mount. After that ever...

Can it be a stepper or two that skipped a step?

After printing PLA for about 20-30minutes on different prints, sometimes the whole print moves a few mm to the left/front.

Attached a few pictures. Is there something wrong with the carriages?

Thanks, it helped!