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Going through the machine again to get printing I found a problem that I am not sure how to correct. Hot end is E3D V6 Getting ready to print T-Glase with Bed at 60 C and Extruder set to 215C Orion LCD panel reads set points correctly. Bed goes to 60C and I measure within 1 degree with hand held non...

Yep that is the screen shot but to the left is filter button.

Version is the problem, I just installed V1.2 and it's now gone.

Send an e-mail off to matterhackers and ask. Or if you can grab the older version 1.1.3 which the button is there.

Only thing I can comment is it's there. Very tiny button top left. Maybe reinstall?

Getting off topic but those of you who are old enough back when they tried to teach us all metric in school. How did that work out?

And the fun thing which is my pet peeve, I get drawings which have both mm and inches Who does that?

Yes captain we are not in Kansas and we WILL crash.

I use matter control lately and like it but see the same problem with estimation.
MC said it would take 2 hours 10 minutes and timed almost double at 4 hours 20 minutes.

Not sure what, haven't tried their new version yet just released for control over multiple extruders.
Maybe they fixed some stuff?

Jim any chance you could upload the raw file and the program you drew it up in? I was just getting ready to draw one up myself would save reinventing the wheel. I just want to modify the height. Seems another part of the puzzle for my E3D hot end jamming might be the layer fan is blowing to much ont...

Assembled per instructions, that video is good also. My retraction was set to zero, just changed from using matter control to the new version of slicr and it jammed after the 3rd print. Any thoughts on clearing jams quicker? The last time it jammed with pla I removed the hot end and disassembled it....

Need some help again folks. Running the E3d V6 hotend on my orion. This first occured when removing black pla, it was print okay and I normally just heat up to 205 and release the red lever and pull out the filament. The first time I tried this completely solid inside the screw section and had to us...

Appreciate the help Eaglezsoar. Would have taken a long time for me to find that setting. Also, interface isn't the same as original but no worries I see English now. I was bad, normally I back up things before changing. If I could have a true original file to modify my interface would be okay. Migh...

Okay that is clear now what to do. Works with one HUGE exception. Default language for my machine is ENGLISH not GERMAN! I changed from default to English and upload the file again and get GERMAN. So now my Orion is programmed in German. Deleted everything and tried again, same results. Everything i...

Repetier 0.91 is version #

This isn't supposed to be that difficult. I must be missing something as the steps are NOT clear. P.S. Telling "it where your Repetier files are is the problem" WHERE are they located? On my machine or someplace on the web? On this link https://github.com/seemecnc/Repetier-091-ORION/tree/m...

Got that part already eaglezsoar, appreciate the response. What I really need is a way to mod the firmware. I figured out I need to change the setting on the configuration.h file in the arduino but after downloading the software I can't figure out how to edit this file and upload to my orion. Arduin...

I searched but before I fry something HELP please :) Installed a new E3D V6 hot end on my orion. How do you reconfigure your firmware for the Semitec 104GT2 thermistor? Software update somewhere? Secondary issue: I need a new layer fan since the original no longer fits. Hope I can print a new one us...

I have always used Repetier and slic3r and just this weekend set up matter control for my orion. I have been printing quite a lot of circles and small cylinders which slic3r just doesn't handle well. I have to say that using matterslicer the g code was more intuitive than slic3r jumping all over the...

I print on a layer of painters tape.
So far I just use a small block of wood and tap around the base of the part.
Eventually it lets go.

Trying to make a simple toothbrush holder that uses a center post. I have tried changing quite a few things and the post never seems to print round or straight. PLA on painters tape Previous settings Layer .4mm Print speed kinda high 80mm/s Infill .1 Bed temp 60/ extruder 205 For these pictures belo...

Your finished, keep it and get her finalized You will regret selling it, t r u s t meeeeeeeeeeeeeee!

I'll go way off into left field here.
They make castable ceramics.
Why not print a hot end and cast it?
Not going into all the details here, but temp is 3000 deg C for the stuff we use so would handle anything we throw at it.

Project #397

Update: Mold looks good, 1050 degrees F for 40 minutes and poof. Just some ash where the PLA was.
Baked it for 4 1/2 hours with a slow ramp to final temp to make sure everything was dry.
Monday we pour metal

My guess is you did not intend to post Def Leppard - Me and my wine? Pretty sure the video is of a guy melting al in the snow? Yep saw that one. saw that video after I had the idea. Slow day in the shop today, got the mold poured but took longer than expected and won't bake out till tomorrow, might ...

Captain Starfish wrote:Sorry, I meant 450 real degrees (ºC)

850ºF or more.

And yeah, if there's enough cold PLA in the sprue to slow the metal and allow it to cool, it'll jam.

Your hired, when can you start? We play with everything here Every day is new and fun. OKay sometimes frustratingly s l o w.

I just did a quick search and you can find .065" trimmer line that is made from "nylon components"
Seems the temperature needed is 245 for the extruder, too hot for the orion?

More info please.

There was a pretty nasty chemical that dissolved PLA. Might be worth a look into since you likely have the controls and PPE to do it safely if you're already playing with molten metal. What was the chemical? Edit, I searched for nasty chemical and found this: Miller-Stephenson’s MS-111 Stripping Ag...

Must not have gotten it hot enough, 525 deg F for 1 hour didn't touch it. I then poured molten metal into the mold and the pla STOPPED the molten 2000 Deg metal :shock: Was looking at something I could run through the mold. Presents another problem then to dry the mold. Will crank the heat up more a...