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I was going to suggest try another slicer but I have done that and usually it's futile. Dialing in your settings are key. Also, my prints using t-glase are with zero retraction and much slower see this post http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7095" onclick="window.open(this....

I'll chime in here since I am rebuilding my E3D V6 hot end. Last print the nozzle hit the green PLA christmas tree ornament I was printing and really whacked the nozzle. I have green PlA all over the heater block and coming out the heat break. It also broke the filament (got to hang around next to t...

Hi John, Just sent you an e-mail.
A show in "my" part of the U.S.A.
Very kind offer very much appreciated.

Give us some parameters to work with.
What are you printing on? Its overlapped and shouldn't be. You created a ridge to print your base on for starters.

That part looks like it would need some support to print anyway.

I'm going with umbrella holder.

Since your hot end is hitting the part this is contributing to your part lifting.
I haven't printed anything with ABS only PLA and I don't have any issues so far with lifting.
Stop using multiple things to stick the part to the bed. Use 1 only.
All I can offer, good luck.

Anyone using the coated nozzles yet? Also I was looking at the different materials for nozzles comparing brass to stainless. Has anyone any experience? The reason I ask is my E3D jammed again last night and I am a builder at heart so I ordered some stainless and brass blank material :ugeek: Planning...

I don't want this to come off as bad but a couple of points which have been brought up before. I almost bought a license after reading a bit about how great this slicer is. Not having a trial is a real turn off in today's software environment. I wonder how much of a hassle it was to get a refund plu...

Thanks for the input guys, I'll grab some oil and lube em up.

Kinda makes sense, these are super hard to push in but when the machine is running they move out of place real fast.
Never thought about binding up.

Maybe that's why I get a band sometimes on a print at levels?

Hi Jim, yes I have those clips they don't do much. Connections down at the hot end (effector) Here is a picture of one end coming out. Appreciate the quick reply. Is there already a solution to this? They are hard to push back into place but after a 4 hour print they come out almost completely :shock:

Orion machine here. I noticed since the machine was new the rods work there way out of the cheapskates. I put some magnets over the ends and this seemed to work. Was looking at printing up some clip arrangement over the ends but here is the problem and question for you guys. The layer fan gets in th...

From looking at the chart there is no need to heat.

The main thing a vacuum system pumps and removes first is water vapor. Then all the other gases in the system.

Any results yet?

What your doing is push the collar and keep it held in while removing the tube is correct. You shouldn't need pliers or any tools, just a guess but this is the problem. Just use fingers to remove this, should be stuck. Only thing I can think of is you have melted this with the original hot end but k...

Here is some information for those that are trying to print with T-Glase. Orion with E3D V6 hot end .4mm nozzle stock Using glue stick on glass bed worked well (Always calibrate head when changing anything) I put mine to within .05mm of bed. I ran this part with skirt 15mm from part with 2 lines to ...

If your running the stock Orion hot end your going to need to print real slow and hotter than you should with the orion. I have a E3D hot end on my orion and I print at 235-240 Deg C and ~ 10mm/s anything faster or cooler and I have problems. The pop your hearing is the stepper slipping, stop before...

The biggest thing I found was if all your hardware is assembled correctly and working okay it simply a calibration problem. I noticed yesterday while printing stuff all day long that if your not careful with the temp and speed you can jam real quick. Very slight backlash on the extruder wheel or any...

Depends on how hot you got that little wire when you soldered it. I used the crimps but even then you have to make sure it gets a good connection since the wire is so small. Either bad connection or you fried it. Remove a lead so your not connected to the rambo and check the resistance, should be 10...

Tips on using T-Glase. No particular order and YMMV since I am no expert just playing still. Using an orion delta with E3D V6 hot end. Bottom up. Painters tape bed temp 60C Sticks well First layer extruder size mine is .4mm so that is first layer. Slow, I found that 5mm works. Keep it below 20 or yo...

I know it's been said before. Without a demo version to test I for one will NOT fork over money.
Besides like all slicers there are quirks to work around and hiccups.
I have read too many posts where the author doesn't respond to problems.
So IMHO open source gets my donation every time.

Here also, jump in and start printing. You will find your way. In Orange County and break stuff faster than most people

Lots of helpful people here that will assist.

A tip, go s l o w you will get farther ahead

I would imagine it's easy to grab the code for retraction and put it into the end of your G-code. P.S. after this last clearing and cleaning I re-tuned everything up and measure real accurately my T-Glase that I was printing with. So far a full day of printing multiple test objects and no jams. Soft...

drill bit only on the nozzle not the heat break. Appreciate the tip, I try to go slow before I FUBAR something.

Thermistor reads 100K ohms unplugged.

I still measure EXACTLY deg F on the hot end with the non contact thermometer instead of deg C.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Pete

Great post Jim, very nice of you do make this available.
Pete

Hi again :) Yes I do have a good ohm meter. I'll take apart and measure. Weird because apparently it was printing pla until I just updated the PID using matter control. Forgot that important tidbit of info. For info here was the old values and then new values I input after PID tuning. Old: P 31.36 I...