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Depends on your CAD package. You might also be able to copy/paste the path you're sweeping along with an offset and do the same with that shape such that there's a shape at either end of the paths and one path connects the middle of the arc and the other the centre of the opposite flat on the squar...

So, I THINK I've got it. I was playing around with it for what seemed like hours. I put a 1 inch fillet on the edge THEN created the sweep cut, and that seemed to give a better result. [img]http://i.imgur.com/uLsNmsz.png[/img] No idea if this will actually work, but I have to print solid, so I'll kn...

The subtract result looks sensible considering what you've done. Maybe, instead of a circle, if you swept a semicircle bolted onto a square, it would be deep enough to cut the block completely and have shoulders wide enough to take the tube. I see what you're saying. Create a half circle, with a re...

IMBoring25 wrote:Use the mandrels you already have twice.

That's what I originally created them for, but the bends are too tight, it didn't work. I really need to do it in one shot, and creating this mold would be the best chance of it working.

Hello all, haven't been here in a while, as I've been a bit too unwell to play with my printer, but I'm slowly trying to get back into it all. It's good to see familiar faces still active. Anyway, I've been trying to set up a new pc with rigid tubing for a watercooling loop, and I need to bend tubin...

Still for sale... price dropped to $80 shipped.

No worries, no worries. Hopefully I can recoup some of my losses. I haven't been able to do any printing / tinkering lately. Back pain I was having turned out to be fractures in my spine, then they damaged a nerve in my arm from the IV for the CT scan (No using my left arm for a few months), so figu...

Still for sale if anyone's interested. I've had a few people ask me if I still had it, but they had not responded after that first inquiry... not sure why. I can also throw in this printed part if interested: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:364325" onclick="window.open(this.href);return f...

lol I don't mind sending it to Aus... it was just a matter of shipping cost, but if you're willing to cover it, I see no problem. Send a P.M. with your address, I'll calculate postage for you, if you'd like.

As the title says, I have for sale a brand new E3D V6 hotend that I purchased for a dual extruder setup. It's fully assembled with thermistor, and an XT60 connector soldered on. I was unable to level the bed, so gave up on the dual extruder setup. I have not run ANY filament through it. I can includ...

Cool, thanks for sharing, but I don't see the code listed under the video... unless I'm not looking hard enough.

Been taking a break from troubleshooting my printer (actually, I've just been incredibly busy with not so fun real life stuff), but I thought I'd post something I designed last week for my V2. Just a plate to attach 60mm angel eyes to, if you're like me and like to easily add and remove the LED's fo...

The previous problem with the massive gaps had been resolved for the most part... it does involve me smashing the filament into the bed, but yeah, I did go through the firmware when I was working on the dual extruders. I changed several things, but I'll go through again... still, this is what I mean...

Well, the reason I've been upgrading is because I've been unhappy with prints... mainly issues with overhangs. I very much wanted a dual extruder setup for supports. So many things I want to work on that are just too complicated without, and I'm not a fan of gluing plastics. The upgrades I've perfor...

Thanks for taking the time to print it out. I'll try with again with PLA, this one was done in ABS. Just been having a frustrating, bad day, and I realized that since I purchased my printer I've only printed parts to try and make it function better, haven't actually had a chance to use it and be cre...

No, I was watching the whole print, no dingleberries at all. It's hard to see in that pic, but it's actually much worse. Those are how the layers printed... mushy. I tried setting a lower temp, thinking it was just too hot, but that wasn't the case. It can't print overhangs worth a damn, and I think...

You're probably not far off.

I'm getting really frustrated with my RMax... I'm about to just sell it off and buy an Ultimaker clone or something. I've spent all my time on it trying to get it to do what I want, I haven't been able to actually USE it to make anything that isn't for the printer itself. After tweaking and tweaking...

It's a simple enough fix. The 2 pins look intact, but the shielding pins seem to be severed. I'd just buy a new receptacle https://www.sparkfun.com/products/139" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; to make life easy. Get some solder wick, some standard 60/40 solder, and a bit of ...

Just wanted to say, the PEI is working great since I've calibrated the bed properly. Really great adhesion with ABS, though I've only printed small parts so far. I do feel that the PEI is somewhat lumpy in places. It might be due to the tape. There were spots were the glue bunched up, which I didn't...

I believe that by default fan0 is off. It's used as the layer fan, so you could test it by manually turning the fan on in Repetier Host. Heat1 is used as the peek fan (turns on when hotend is on) with the default SMC Repetier firmware.

Thanks, I managed to get the glued piece off. You're right, I was smashing the first layer into the bed. My first print failed because the ABS didn't stick, so I lowered the nozzle about .1mm with this second print. Amazing how strong it bonded to the PEI! I had a tiny bit of residue left over on th...

I finally applied my PEI sheet and test printed in ABS. I couldn't get the print off the bed afterwards. It was fused onto the bed. I tried, as recommended, removing the part when the bed cooled down to around 75c, then again at 60c, then again when it cooled even further. No luck. Is it safe to use...

Ah, gotcha, thanks. Do you think it could still be the problem, considering it homes each time it moves to a calibration point? There wouldn't be that shift you mention on subsequent moves, since the first move is from the home position, right? My offsets are about 11.3 x whatever the steps are set ...

Maybe that's my problem. I'm not sure what you mean by setting the homing to back off though. I believe the first hotend is at 0,0, and when I switch to the second, it shifts to the same spot (tested by marking a dot on a piece of paper, placing it under the first nozzle, then switching extruders). ...