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Hello...

It's been a while since anyone posted here, but I just discovered this. I found the html version, but the latest openDACT is 3.1.1a on github, but there is no release link for that version (there is for 3.1.0a). Is there a build for 3.1.1a or is that still not ready?

Thanks

-David

I started printing using the usb. I wasn't using the computer for anything else at the time, but had the printer just stop in the middle of the print, nozzle resting right on the part, with the heat stuck on. I used the software to try to kill the print, but it just crashed. When I tried to reconnec...

The settings may be right for how the RAMBO performs retractions, so make sure that's turned off ( I don't know what it's default is off the top of my head), if you are using a slicer's retraction method. Having both on will make for some unpredictable results. I have no idea, but I'm using Cura st...

They should be the same for PLA and ABS. A retraction of around 2 with a speed of 25 to 35. These are only recommended settings, it does not mean that you cannot experiment on your own and see what works best for you. I'll give those settings a try, my much higher settings might explain why my thin...

Hi G. Lenght 5.4mm Speed 100mm Set lenght now to 2 mm, seems to be better, Thank you for your pointing help. :) Also, your speed should be about a third of what you have or in that area. What are the ideal PLA settings for this? My retractions are pretty rough too (although they don't shake the who...

I just ended up breaking off the acrylic tab so I can press the button directly. Sounds like that is in desperate need of a re-design. I have to say that the main acrylic face was a bad fit... it was bent at the wrong angle, and the bend (bottom edge) was too high, meaning it took quite a bit of wor...

I've been using Cura with mostly good results. I wish it had more options related to supports (I know about the advanced settings). I wish it would lay a bed down under the support structures as they are so thin and wispy that they can get lifted up without too much effort. If they were done on top ...

You had one or more parts come free from the bed during the print job. What are you using to hold the parts to the bed and what temp did you heat the bed to? g. All but one small part was stuck like glue to the plate. Seems odd that that one part coming loose would effectively prevent all objects f...

Menu -> SD Card Menu -> Stop Print I tried this, and while it does stop the print, it effectively freezes the machine, leaving the nozzle in contact with the part, and the temps at the current settings. I would expect a stop command to stop, home the towers, and turn the heat off. I had to go into ...

had a print running all night, and woke up to this... mess.JPG Most of the print was fine, but apparently stopped at a certain height before it was done as all parts look like they were chopped off. There was a spaghetti mess on top of it all. I'm guessing I had a temporary clog, so a few layers wer...

The LCD "Stop" button should work, but you have to really bend the plexiglass trim tab way in to get it to press the actual button. See item 5 in my first post in this thread to see a way to make the button easier to use. Dan Thanks. I did that, but on the outside, so it still needs to go...

I'm printing a much smaller version of the same model. I'm almost afraid to ask, but must... What print times are you getting with these mega parts?

-David

When printing from the PC, I can kill a print in progress through the interface. Lately I've been printing from the SD card. I just had a print start to peel up (too many prints without re-applying hairspray), and I decided to kill the print since it hadn't got very far. I tried hitting the emergenc...

Thanks, hairspray seems to be working. Currently using PLA , hairspray on a 60 degree bed.

-David

Hairspray seems to have done the trick. Moved on to PLA, and it works with that too. I'll try tape again at some point, now that I've changed plastic. Cura seems to be printing ok. It is putting some support structures in that don't seem to be supporting much, as they don't really connect to anythin...

cool, thanks

-David

Hello...

I've printed the fan shrouds in ABS, and would like to change to PLA for future prints. What settings need to be changed? Temps need to change, but I'm not sure what else. I know there is a PLA settings file for Slic3r, but what about in Cura?

Thanks

-David

E-Steps should be 0 The width looks to be correct at 270 Depth should also be 270 ALL settings under printer head size should be zeros including gantry height. (When Cura sees the zeroes, it uses the values from the firmware) I am going to try to upload my Cura.ini file if this forum will let me. C...

Awesome, thanks. Now if only I could get that layer shroud to print. Tried with blue tape and glue stick as per docs, and the part comes loose about 45 min in each time. I caught it as it happened the first time, the second it went a while before I saw and stopped it, and ended up with a glob of pla...

So I ran my very first print, the PEEK fan shroud, and aside from a few blobs here and there, I was quite pleased that it turned out very clean. I used blue tape on the glass, and the ABS stuck quite nicely, and came off without any fuss. I started the Layer shroud, but noticed that the ends on the ...

I use it to create the GCode and transfer the GCode to the SD card and print from the SD card. What settings are you not sure about? In the Machine settings dialog... E-Steps per 1mm filament Maximum Width (270?) Max Depth (same?) Max height (389.585 from the printer settings Printable height in Re...

I was about to try Cura, but after pulling it up I'm slightly confused on the process. The Rep software has Slic3r built in, and it is all sliced and run in one interface. In Cura, I see that you can setup and looks like it can also connect to the printer. If I use Cura, do I not run Repetier and le...

Ok, thanks

-David

I just finished calibration recently but have not printed anything yet. I was going to use Blue Painters tape on the bed. I measured and the tape is .12 mm thick. Do I need to account for that in any of the printer settings before I print? Like reduce the max Z height by .12?

Thanks

-David

Solved. Made the appropriate LCD cables from an old drive cable. I now have a working LCD and am currently calibrating.

-David