Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

i used the cheao suave hairspray from walmart or even a cheap can from dollar store worked in a pinch for me, but silicone dont think so.

very creative, enjoyed the build log!

KAS wrote:That really looks like a jagermeister bottle in the bathroom... What AFSC?

ok that is some funny stuff, nothing starts your day in college then a quick brush of jagger! lol

btw welcome to the forum!

I have been printing a ton of the white and black PLA at the following settings and been very happy with it. .15-.2 layers, 60-75 speed, 215 head, 60 bed, full fan, 4.5mm retracts .4 nozzle on a E3d V6 head 3 perimeters 4 layers top and bottom. I have done a number of 56+ hour prints ( Really BIG p...

i too picked up a couple 1kg spools of the inland PLA, i bought red and white, i have only tested with red yesterday. i started off with 190 then up to 210 as the print progressed. 300mm speed. printed looked decent .25 layers i had no problems sticking to the bed and each layer stuck well, i do hav...

very cool, and lol @ the "keeping the cats out o the machine"

thanks for sharing the build your prints are very nice, where is the PLA from? i just want a nice clear encloser with a magnetic door

Very nice looking prints. Your printer seems to dialed in quite good. thank you ES, it does seem like its doing well since i did the hotend with the 40w cartridge, quality of prints seem better, but ill be honest i know im not using the best of quality PLA im sure. but i def love tinkering with thi...

BenTheRighteous wrote:Wow! Did you print those fins with or without support? That looks great!

hi sorry i should have put that, no support the photo on the printer is fresh, the design is quite well with the layers that it didn't need it as it spirals it holds together well.

so i wanted to run a longer file and print a nice vase for my wife to test the new 40w cartridge so i went with this file. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:481259" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; set it for .25 layers @ 30mm speed ( some where around 13 hour print )( kisslice...

Eaglezsoar wrote:Which layer fans are you using in the pictures?

thanks, just the 25mm fans.http://seemecnc.com/collections/parts-a ... mm-12v-fan" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

So after a week and half with 2nd hot end rebuild, i finally installed the 40w cartridge and new thermistor on my spare hot end, have had flawless prints since, and it stays within a degree or 2 consistently, im pretty happy, i didn't use the tapped thermistor but did order a new pre wired 100k ther...

teoman wrote:Monitor temp of peek for a while, just in case...

well i tore everything down waiting for cartridge and new thermistor so it will change etc..
i have to CNC a new 1/4" thick aluminum hot end plate for mounting the hotend since the original kind of compressed a little.

geneb wrote:Yeah, that's my video.

g.

ah ok, ye i ordered the 40w catridge, and a new thermistor, will do it the same way. thanks for posting the video.

now i know where i got the idea to tape up my hot end, was from this video, i used about the same amount of tape and just put the thermistor wire held in there. he mentioned to use the tape to help hold the joint from spinning lose, ( i just wont put tape over the plastic fins as much) so i just cop...

teoman is correct - you don't want to block the cooling fins in the PEEK section with Kapton. g. its been running great fr about 40 hours worth of print time, the upper portion of the hotend is cool to the touch during printing, so its getting enough cooling for sure, but i understand where your co...

i decided not to use ATV to hold the thermistor sensor in this time as i didn't trust it staying in this time and i just taped everything to keep it clear I think the RTV isn't just to hold the thermistor in, but to connect it thermally to the hot end. Without that, you're adding a bit of a lag (I ...

Well i had some heat issues and it all turned out to be the resistors took a dump, but they logged way more hours then i could imagine. anyways rebuilt a spare hot end, until i decide witch newer cool hot end i want to go with. i did however order the Heater Cartridge from hotends.com so look forwar...

Brian wrote:I'd fix the stock one and then use it to make all the bits would will need to mount a new one, then keep the stock one as a spare in case of an emergency.

ye seems like a good idea, ill get a new Bowden Hotend setup, then rebuild the old like you said for a spare.

New resistors are cheap. You probably had an air bubble in the silicone that caused a hot spot and one of the resistors failed at that point. I had this happen and I reinstalled the new resistors but wrapped them with copper foil tape first, which really spreads the heat out and makes air bubbles a...

i have been running my dual fans like this for 2 months, no problems, now when i start a print it rises to the target temp, but i can tell the hot end seems to take longer, even with fans off its not as fast as before, then when it starts printing it drops lower to 140 for sure as well and if i swit...

My hotend used to go up to 245 (max i tried) now it only goes up to 233. And i do not have a alyer fan. I think some of the rtv has gone so the heat is not reaching the metal... i will try squirting more rtv in there or redoint the whole rtv part. What you should do is (in my opinion) 1 redo the ca...

You guys nailed it. Those fans were cooling the nozzle that much. They were blowing against each other. Once I removed one, the air had somewhere to go and its doing better. Now at 176 instead of where it should be at 190. But its an improvement over the 144 I did have. i have the same exact proble...

I switched from KISSlicer to CraftUnique and the print finished correctly. Could someone test the gcode from the original post using the dry run feature in Rep-Host? I'm trying to test whether the RAMBo v1.1 electronics have a bug or if they have a physical defect. If you have had the same problem,...

I switched from KISSlicer to CraftUnique and the print finished correctly. Could someone test the gcode from the original post using the dry run feature in Rep-Host? I'm trying to test whether the RAMBo v1.1 electronics have a bug or if they have a physical defect. If you have had the same problem,...