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Also, do I need to worry about origin offset, or leave that defaulted at 98.5 for X and Y? Sorry I didn't mention it but yeah, the origin offset has to change or it will be off center. I changed it to half the new diameter or 132.5mm. Thanks for sharing! Mine were pretty similar with PETG, but I we...

Used jcarlin's profile for the first time for real tonight and it worked great. Made a couple changes though: Changed build volume to proper 265x265x395. I also used Magigoo so I set the initial layer height and width to 100% because it was squishing too much and causing the extruder to click from t...

jcarlin wrote:I have a new version of my S3D FFF for the v3.2...

SeeMeCNC Rostock Max v3.2 version 2.fff.zip

Just curious, why is the build area so small in this setup?

Thanks for posting jcarlin, I'm going to give your config a shot tomorrow.

Thanks geneb!

Anyone have a profile they'd share for Simplify3D for stock Rostock MAX v3.2?

JATMN wrote: Were you using this one? http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 275#p91626
I have posted 2 version to this forum so far.. that would be the current one from that post..

Whoops, totally missed that for the images. Will give it a try.

JATMN wrote:Printed using my s3d profile set to about 30mms and temp at 215c for this Filament. Not enough infill for the base though.. but not bad. As was off the print bed not clean up.

Have you made any updates to your S3D profile? It was under-extruding for me when I tried it this weekend.

Simplify3D fans I am currently tuning a test profile for the Eris at this very moment.. Started is before Maker Faire so I think is mostly done.. I will be posting on here later today so you can test it out.. :geek: I will definitely test this out. Want to get out of MatterControl ASAP(can't really...

Too me, it is almost like the raft is being used, when not. However, I'm using the default settings that came with the zip-file and have not made changes to them yet. There's no raft, that's the bottom layer and it's definitely not low enough. It should look something more like this: [img]http://i....

[img]http://i.imgur.com/MSfQmdB.jpg[/img] Prints pretty nice with the settings provided. Decent amount of stringing(I already picked some off before taking the picture). I also should have mouse-eared the legs or something because they lifted off the bed from contraction and messed up a couple layer...

Also, why on earth is the latest slic3r now about 10 times slower than the version bundled with .90? This object I'm printing takes 12 seconds to slice in .90, but 1:50 in .95F! Others are taking 30 minutes and they aren't even complex. It seems to get even worse with the 1.0 release candidates. Th...

McSlappy wrote:Is there a possiblity of creating a new forum area dedicated to the e3d head?

Please don't.

Some enterprising individual just needs to pull the good stuff from the thread, summarize it into a good first post and then start a new thread. There's a V5 now after all.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrrO0elGXJM&feature=youtu.be Here's the quick first draft video of the calibration process I went through. I forgot to mention that when using the calibration tool, you want to leave it still attached to the printer bed, do not simply toss it up there as I do in t...

Putting together my Rostock MAX today and even more frustrating there is that is says to use those 4 1/2" 4-40 socket head screws, the assembly manual also says to use those same 1/2" 4-40 socket head screws, that 6 clamps x 2 screws = 12 screws, + 4 for the RAMBo = 16, there are only 12 ...

Hey guys, you seriously tapped this small hole with a M3-.5 tap without pre-drilling to 2.5mm? It doesn't even seem deep enough to get enough threads on a regular taper tap. I do have bottoming and plug taps too but none of them will start in that little blind hole. Are you sure you are not tapping...

An alternative LCD assembly to using #4 wood screws and possibly splitting the melamine: Buy an 1/8" dowel at a hardware or hobby store. Cut four 1" sections out of the dowel. Enlarge the four holes on the faceplate with an 1/8" drill bit(they're already extremely close). Assemble the...

T-nuts are fully seated, flush with melamine and no cupping. They're just plain not long enough. *shrug*

edit: Added picture

[img]http://nuclearfuzzgrunge.com/images/3d_ ... _short.jpg[/img]
Barely enough thread to engage the t-nut, even if it did reach.

Page 110: You’ll need four 1/2” #4-40 socket head screws, four #4 flat washers and eight small round plastic spacers. 1/2" screws aren't long enough for stacking two plastic spacers. The screw just touches the insert lip. I have a RAMBo 1.2 if the PCB is thicker now or something. I'm going to p...

Just got my machine wired(temporary) and the latest Repetier firmware/Host a little bit ago. Did you make sure to wipe your EEPROM before uploading 0.91 like John says to in the first post of the 0.91 firmware thread? I forgot to do this in my excitement to just see it move. My printer was moving al...

Eaglezsoar wrote: They probably want to back engineer them and come out with a real printer.

They need some good prints to show off next to their new line of printers.

The aluminum disk was purchased and a machine shop cut it to size here is the link: http://www.sandsmachine.com/alumweb.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Did you have S&S machine it for you? If so, care to share the drawing? I may get one of these in the future for a ...

Quick correction for typo, page 162:

printer. Don't worry, you're in good company.) moving the hot end around and seeing how it works,

I thought it was strange too because you guys reply pretty quick to other threads. I figured nobody understood what I was trying to say. It's difficult to describe and I even had to send another description to support before John got what I was talking about. Definitely didn't think I was being igno...

Yeah, I ended up emailing support this morning about it after not getting traction here.