V2 (mid 2016) to V3.2 (current) upgrade?

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Windshadow
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V2 (mid 2016) to V3.2 (current) upgrade?

Postby Windshadow » Thu Jul 12, 2018 3:03 pm

I doubt many folks recall my participation here in late 2015 to mid 2016 building and using my V2 but in August of that year I had to put it into storage as I had to go back to work in a job that required constant travel.

I am now back to a settled status and I thought it might be fun to upgrade my V2 to the current V3.2
Has anyone done a detailed list of what is needed for this? I assume that the these parts will be needed
https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/pa ... 300-hotend
https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/pa ... s/whip-kit
https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/pa ... trol-board
https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/pa ... v3-to-v3-2 (does this include the 3 items above at the$380 price point
https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/pa ... t-for-v3-2 at $138

So if that is right about $520 for the needed parts... what am I missing here as I see all the info seems to be about upgrading a V3 to V3.x and where do I look for the needed how to do it posts and videos.
in other words does this V3 to V3.2 set of instructions cover doing a late version V2 to V3.2 upgrade https://seemecnc.dozuki.com/Guide/Upgra ... 95?lang=en

Cheers
Windy
PS: I am at last fully recovered from the broken (c2) neck in July 2016 ( but I had to go back to work to pay all medical bills that it caused

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Re: V2 (mid 2016) to V3.2 (current) upgrade?

Postby PengLord » Thu Jul 12, 2018 11:39 pm

The 3.0 to 3.2 kit includes the Duet, Whip, and hotend.
If you add the panel, you will need to drill some holes or print my side mount adapter: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2986057
The side-panel mount requires longer cables, you can make a longer 4-wire cable using the connectors provided in the DuetWifi box. Further details here: viewtopic.php?f=112&p=108921#p108921

You might want to consider picking up a handful of (4-5) 9 degree steppers ($15 each) since you'll be doing upgrades anyways.

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Re: V2 (mid 2016) to V3.2 (current) upgrade?

Postby geneb » Fri Jul 13, 2018 8:03 am

Windshadow! Nice to see you still kicking around man!

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Re: V2 (mid 2016) to V3.2 (current) upgrade?

Postby Xenocrates » Fri Jul 13, 2018 11:05 am

Those instructions won't cover everything. The V2 doesn't have the same frame setup as the V3, nor does it have mounting holes for the Duet, whip, etc. If you want that, you'll need a V3 frame kit, which goes for 270. If you don't want to change the hole frame, you can use a duet mount for the V2 frame, such as mine, which is designed to be laser cut, but can be printed, or Codon's. Mine and Codon's are fairly similar, as far as the actual duet mount, mine just uses larger diameter fans, since I had a handful of 60mm computer fans around. His has a complete paneldue setup however.

You may also want some of the machined ball joints, so that you have a match between the hotend and the carriages

Let us know how it all works out, and welcome back. It's very good to hear your health has returned (even if it does come with a side of having to work).
Machines:
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
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Windshadow
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Re: V2 (mid 2016) to V3.2 (current) upgrade?

Postby Windshadow » Fri Jul 13, 2018 5:12 pm

Thanks Guys its nice to be remembered. :D I am going to be a hale and healthy :D 70 next month and for a time after the injury I wondered if I was going to make it to 68 :o .

I read the guide for the 3 to 3.2 and I noticed that this upgrade involves shifting the steppers up top as well as a bunch of other stuff so this looks to be a bit more expensive than I thought with the laser cut frame stuff.... the new steppers are a minor expense and(those neat machined ball joints I can make myself on my Schaublin instrument makers lathe from either prints or by buying one and copying it) .... basically a full teardown(though I had to do a partial disassembly for storage anyway so the top is separate from the rest and the uprights removed so a lot of that part is done) and rebuild. of course If I have to make a bunch of parts for the upgrade like the duet mount then I will need to get it running again first and make those... lots to think about.
This is the lathe and I made myself a ball turning tool some years ago. :D
Image
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fz8cnoj4gsnou4e/Schaublin%20ft.%20view_preview.jpg?dl=0
looks like I have forgotten how to include an image here as well :?
So I will need to sit down this weekend and see exactly what I will need but I thing it is essentially a full rebuild and if I have to get a set of the new laser cut frames then I think doing it with those following the guide for the 3.2 using parts from the old machine as well so I am guessing about 7oo to900 bucks outlay so it may be a month or 2 till I start (other finishing the disassembly.) a saving of 100 to 150 over ordering a new kit and rebuilding the V2 to its v2 level and trying to craigs list it... used 3d printers built from kits don't have much resale value here :cry:with the difference so small it might make more sense to spend the $1000 for a new v3.2 kit and I bet with moving the steppers a lot of wiring will need to be replaced...( I hate splicing wiring for length... it has come back and bitten me more than once on boat electronics.)

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Re: V2 (mid 2016) to V3.2 (current) upgrade?

Postby Xenocrates » Sat Jul 14, 2018 12:03 pm

Likely with the V3 to V3.2 upgrade kit, and the designs from repables, you'll have a pretty darn solid machine. The V3 frame is quite nice, but the V2 is still pretty solid (after all, a bunch of us manage to make pretty good parts on V2s, and Gene and a few others still keep V1's in working trim (I've fixed one, but don't own one)). A large portion of the V3 improvements are in assembly, and some ergonomics for things like belt tensioning, as well as board mounting. There's more rigidity in the bed mounting solution, but I'm not sure that's exactly needed as it stands, for a duet based platform, as it was aimed at generating a clean sharp tap for the V3's accelerometer system.
Machines:
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router

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Re: V2 (mid 2016) to V3.2 (current) upgrade?

Postby Windshadow » Sat Jul 14, 2018 10:31 pm

So the duet wyfi upgrade kit can be used with the computer and steppers on the lower deck? that would mean
https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/pa ... v3-to-v3-2
and
https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/pa ... t-for-v3-2
and the 3 replacement steppers at $15 is that change to .9 degree stepper needed by the upgrade to use the new controller and hotend to best effect....

if I want to move the stuff up top, it looks a bit like I could drill the needed mounting holes in the existing top and print the 3 needed taller top side pieces and save the cost of the v3 frame kit

or keep the gear in the base... roughly $550 ... thats better on the outlay front and it wont have as much rewiring, but I will need to make a custom longer whip Right? to keep the controller in the base... or I need to move the steppers and controller to the top as above... have folks taken this upgrade path?

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Re: V2 (mid 2016) to V3.2 (current) upgrade?

Postby Xenocrates » Sun Jul 15, 2018 12:25 pm

I've taken something close to it, with having a duet in the bottom of a v2 frame. The .9 motors aren't needed to make it work really well, but they do give better resolution, and unlike the stock controller, the duet can run at a step rate to fully make use of the .9 motors. What you may want to do is put a terminal block up in the top of the printer (I have a few in mine, honestly, because I like to tweak the wiring occasionally), and have the majority of the original wiring run to the terminal block, and then the whip connected to that, while the wiring for the strain gauge and possibly some other stuff can run in a variety of spots. Some people have put it in the slots on the towers, under covers, I have mine running in a cable duct on the side of my printer, etc.

As far as I know, no one has moved the steppers and controller on a V2 up top, partially because the motor mounts and tower brackets are very different between the V2 and V3, as the v3 uses injection molded parts with the geometry setup for motors either top or bottom.
Machines:
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router

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Re: V2 (mid 2016) to V3.2 (current) upgrade?

Postby Windshadow » Sun Jul 15, 2018 9:35 pm

Thanks Xeno, I like your thinking on that... the use of terminal blocks up top sounds like a smart way to do it....
Time to start sketching out how I want to do it...
Thinking if i swap the steppers I could use the old rambo and steppers to build a Prusa, printing the parts on my v2/2.8 :) might be handy to also have a printer of the other type... if it turns out well I could give it to the local boys and girls club... the Prusa design seems to be the favored design in beginning 3d education.... I I think they have a pair of Dremel printer they got via a grant last year

I can make your mount out of some scrap solid surfacing that is left over from a bathroom remodel .25 thick it is a faux corian if I remember right The nice thing about having a machine shop with lathes and a bridgeport mill etc is that I am not limited to printing needed parts sometimes old fashioned shop work is quicker :shock:

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Re: V2 (mid 2016) to V3.2 (current) upgrade?

Postby ramai » Tue Jul 17, 2018 3:12 pm

Hey I remember you too windy, I've been kicking around here for a while. Welcome back. I have the V2 as well, and recently upgraded it to the Duet and added the upgraded power supply from Seeme.

I decided not to upgrade the frame or move anything to the top since I didn't see big benefits to doing that. But the Duet looked like a very worthwhile upgrade. I really enjoy the web interface so far. I opted not to do the panelDue so there is no onboard interface for the printer now since the old lcd is not compatible.

The upgraded power supply will make your machine run a bit louder since you need more cooling now for the extra power. The heated bed heats 30% faster though, and it can go higher.

The SE300 hotend from Seeme looks really nice. I'm considering that one. It includes a strain gauge which will take care of the auto calibration by pressing the head lightly on the bed. Looks pretty sweet!
Rostock MAX V2 with trick trucks, cf arms, prometheus hot end, nimble extruder, berdAir cooling.
Cura slicer, Duet Wifi, iMac

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Re: V2 (mid 2016) to V3.2 (current) upgrade?

Postby Windshadow » Wed Jul 18, 2018 4:26 pm

Thanks Ramai, I got my kit for the v2 at the start of December 2016 and so it has the flat type of power supply in the shiny metal case not the computer power supply of the ATX type that the early kits had so I hope I am ok there...
I just need to double check to see if is of the 12 volt and 29 amp size I guess it will be the one they still sell bellow and the text there seems to indicate it is the one shipped with the later v2 and I would guess the v3.
https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/pa ... wer-supply
as I also see one for $70
https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/pa ... supply-kit

the pictures are the same for both of them so I guess the extra $21 is for the wiring, hardware and swap instructions

The royal PITA that i had (other than having to recalibrate every time I moved my v2 from one bench to the other one)( so the new hotend sensor SE300 is very attractive to me.)...were the limit micro switches on each tower (I had lots of problems and replaced them twice the last time right before it went into storage when I had my accident)so I don't know if the that is on then now fixed it the problem was mechanical with the thin metal flappers coming loose.
It looks like they are still in use on the v3 so I guess my problem was an isolated one

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Re: V2 (mid 2016) to V3.2 (current) upgrade?

Postby Xenocrates » Thu Jul 19, 2018 10:55 am

IIRC, the V3 has you remove the flaps, and has it lined up such that they endstop screws hit the actuator directly. I've only had a little hands on time with a V3 though, so i'm not entirely sure. You could also use optical endstops. I think it shouldn't break them often though. Mine have managed to last a few years now without replacement.
Machines:
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router

Sic Transit Gloria Mundi
01-10011-11111100001


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