Max V2 Upgraded arms

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rootboy
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Max V2 Upgraded arms

Postby rootboy » Sun Nov 26, 2017 9:23 pm

Well, I finally got rid of my old arms that had to be held together with Kapton tape...

The new arms are CF rods with Traxxas ball joints. The arm tensioners (or whatever you call them), are rubber bands and a piece of clothes hanger to hold them together. The 3mm nuts and bolts were donated by the local Ace Hardware (they weigh their hardware to come up with the price, and couldn't be bothered to write up a 30 cent ticket. Thanks Ace!!). The CF rods were cut-offs sold by GoodWinds for $13.92 (and $11.35 extra for shipping), and $7.58 for the Traxxas ball joints. Another $5 for the JB Weld epoxy (I tried Gorilla Glue, but I didn't even have them assembled before the glue joints were coming apart on me).

So, about $38 bucks not including rubber bands.
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Mac The Knife
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Re: Max V2 Upgraded arms

Postby Mac The Knife » Mon Nov 27, 2017 7:37 am

These would last a little ( a lot) longer than rubber bands,,,, http://tricklaser.com/Zero-Lash-Straps-RM-ZLASH.htm
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Re: Max V2 Upgraded arms

Postby rootboy » Mon Nov 27, 2017 11:41 am

I'm pretty sure that the rubber bands would last as long as I have replacement rubber bands. :) But your point is well taken. I had planned on using springs that I had bought, but then misplaced. I was in the process of adapting some other springs that were too long when I came up with this plan. My greatest concern is that they are going to hang up on something and tear something up.

And thanks for the link! I have ordered a set, and I'll be happy to retire my butt-ugly tensioners when they come in.

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Re: Max V2 Upgraded arms

Postby Mac The Knife » Mon Nov 27, 2017 12:16 pm

Murphy seems to be always looking over my shoulder, so I try to be one step ahead of him. He'd snap a rubber band in the middle of a 30 hour print, just because.
For my Eris Printer, I did find some springs through McMaster-Carr to take the lash out of the arms,,,, but then I had to play with various settings in firmware to get the autocalibratiion to work.
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Re: Max V2 Upgraded arms

Postby rootboy » Mon Nov 27, 2017 5:16 pm

Yeah, me too. I had visions of one snapping and hitting me in the eye. Try explaining that one to the folks in ER. LOL!

On a happy side note, the new arms are close to spot on when it comes to printing out to scale. I used to have to scale my prints by 1.057 to get it to print out at the intended size, but that's not an issue any longer!!!

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Re: Max V2 Upgraded arms

Postby geneb » Tue Nov 28, 2017 8:33 am

Keep in mind that for all the work you put into that upgrade, you could have purchased the ball-cup arm set for a buck more plus shipping. ;)

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Re: Max V2 Upgraded arms

Postby rootboy » Tue Nov 28, 2017 9:12 am

Yup, I didn't know about Haydn's arms until I had purchased everything for these. I'll probably upgrade yet again after the first of the year.

But in the meantime, I'll bask in the pleasure of arms that don't have to have band-aids to hold them together. :)

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Re: Max V2 Upgraded arms

Postby geneb » Wed Nov 29, 2017 7:58 am

I wasn't talking about those arms, I was talking about these: https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/pa ... ta-arm-kit

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Re: Max V2 Upgraded arms

Postby rootboy » Wed Nov 29, 2017 9:00 pm

Alas, but I don't have the injection-molded carriages. I've got the "Cheap-Skate" type. So that would be another $39 bucks. Which price-wise isn't bad at all, but if I upgrade the carriages (no reason to, they are tight), I'd probably go with the Trick Laser version.

But thanks for the heads up! :)


Edit: But I now have the "Zero Backlash Straps" on. It's beginning to look more and more like a respectable printer...

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Re: Max V2 Upgraded arms

Postby geneb » Thu Nov 30, 2017 8:38 am

The nice thing about the injection molded carriages is that there's no need (or way) to adjust them. They grip the t-slot with the proper force by design.

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Re: Max V2 Upgraded arms

Postby rootboy » Sun Dec 03, 2017 7:56 pm

They are doing well, but they will probably be swapped out later.

It took awhile to get it dialed in, I used the 13-point calibration routine with a dial indicator mounted in its own holder that I printed for it. The values mostly came in negative, so i normalized them by adding 1 to each count as well as 1 to the total Z axis build height. This is where things got weird.

The hotend would start its prints at about 1.5mm above the glass, but correct itself by the time it got to 1.5mm. Running the hotend down to the glass would accurately show that it was zeroed in properly, but all printing would still begin at 1.5mm. I tried everything that I could think of, and was about to reload my previous EEPROM values, when I decided to try unchecking "Require Leveling to Print" in the Printer tab under Settings. This seems to have fixed this problem.

I'm still getting a bit more fill than I should, so I'm going to back down the extrusion multiplier. But otherwise it's working great.

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Re: Max V2 Upgraded arms

Postby DeltaCon » Mon Dec 04, 2017 8:47 am

I don't know if it matters much, but I would put those bands on the upper and lower ends instead of in the middle. In the middle they will bend the arms a bit, or you wil have to loosen them that much that it doesn't help reduce the slop anymore.
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Re: Max V2 Upgraded arms

Postby rootboy » Tue Dec 05, 2017 11:42 pm

Thanks! But that's what I did when I got the "official" bands, I just didn't include a photo of it. The rubber bands have been retired.

I did lower the top end bands enough so they would be close, but not interfere with the carriage, and kept the bottom bands away from the hotend mount at the bottom end.

The stiffness of the hotend has been improved vastly. :) I did have to put tiny ti-wraps where the ends of the rubber connected to the wood. They just wouldn't hold otherwise.

I've got a "Berd-Air MAX Cooling Kit V2" coming in to deal with cooling the layers. We'll see how it performs when it gets here.

Update: It came in last night, I'll have to break out one of the soldering irons to put the board together. We'll see how it goes. :)


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