PETG (PET)

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McSlappy
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PETG (PET)

Postby McSlappy » Wed Jul 16, 2014 9:21 pm

So I've just been toying with some new PETG I got - the intent is to use it in prosthetics due to it's chemical resistance, and apparently that's what a lot of prosthetics are made from... I'm not sure how it's low GTZ will fare but so far I've really like the prints I've done. The layer bonding seems incredible.

Anyone else using PETG and what thoughts do you have?
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lbarger
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Re: PETG (PET)

Postby lbarger » Sun Jun 07, 2015 11:31 am

I have not tried PETG, but have been using PET+ to print front panels for a laboratory instrument I've made. Love the strength and resistance to warping during print, but find it to be rather stringy and a bit pricy. I've been wondering about the differences between PET+ and PETG.

I see that it has been almost a year since you posted PETG. Have you continued to use it and do you still like it?
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Re: PETG (PET)

Postby mvansomeren » Sun Jun 07, 2015 12:05 pm

I've used PETG and it has a lot of good qualities. The thing that I don't like about it is it's tendency to ooze from the hotend... much more than ABS, which is what I use mainly.
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Re: PETG (PET)

Postby lbarger » Sun Jun 07, 2015 2:39 pm

"Oozing" from the nozzle would be accurate for PET+ as well which results in the stringy prints I mentioned. The parts I have been printing are a custom pivoting mount for a 7" touch screen so there are large internal spaces with reinforcing ribs that makes the slicer want to jump from point to point on the inside (but functional) portion of the parts, leaving the occasional strings.

Not too bad to clean up and well worth the effort for strong prints that stay flat on the bed with little effort. I just moved down to a .35mm nozzle which has helped. I may try the PETG just to see how it works for my application. I think I've seen it in 1kg spools were I can only find PET+ in .5kg spools. I think PETG is cheaper as well.
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Re: PETG (PET)

Postby gestalt73 » Sun Jun 07, 2015 11:16 pm

I've started working more with PET+, and have observed everything already mentioned (strength, flex, oozing, stringiness)

I was able to reduce the stringiness somewhat by printing at a lower temp (I think my last print was at 250c)

I hadn't noticed the price difference between PETG and PET+ at my local Microcenter. PET+ is more than twice the price, although it comes in opaque colors, where it appears that PETG is primarily transparent?

I had a client print with a fine (2.5mm triangle) lattice structure that just wouldn't work in PLA or ABS, too brittle. Tried nylon, but that was WAAAAAAY too stringy and flexible.

PET+ fit perfectly, and the client is very happy with the results.

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Re: PETG (PET)

Postby MrJoe » Tue Jun 16, 2015 7:21 am

I've been using PETG from Microcenter with good results.
70°C bed, 247°C extruder, PEI bed surface
Sliced with MatterControl

I was able to reduce stringing and blobs by adding a wipe before retracting.

I can attest that the PETG is strong and flexible, does not break as easily as PLA.
I was able to twist a strut for a quadcopter a few times and it did not break.

Overall I'm very pleased with the MicroCenter filaments.

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Re: PETG (PET)

Postby lumpy_potato » Tue Jul 21, 2015 3:21 pm

MrJoe wrote:I've been using PETG from Microcenter with good results.
70°C bed, 247°C extruder, PEI bed surface
Sliced with MatterControl

I was able to reduce stringing and blobs by adding a wipe before retracting.

I can attest that the PETG is strong and flexible, does not break as easily as PLA.
I was able to twist a strut for a quadcopter a few times and it did not break.

Overall I'm very pleased with the MicroCenter filaments.


Did it have any adhesion issues without PEI? I'd hope to just use the heated bed with the RMAX2 and maybe some purple glue

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Re: PETG (PET)

Postby ccavanaugh » Tue Jul 21, 2015 5:27 pm

I've been getting good results with glue stick at 60C and printing about 245C with the magenta MicroCenter PETG. The First layer is a bit gummy, so increasing 1st layer height has been helpful.

The part appears to stick well during the print and once the bed cools, it pops of with very little force.

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Re: PETG (PET)

Postby lumpy_potato » Thu Jul 23, 2015 8:53 am

I'm going to pick up a pair of rolls on Saturday or Sunday. I'm a little concerned as the RoMax2 hotend is suggested to max out at 245C and PETG seems to print at 230-250 so I'm right at that upper range, but I figure it should be OK. Hopefully it ends up being something awesome :D

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Re: PETG (PET)

Postby Right to Make » Wed Nov 04, 2015 10:08 am

I am using PETG from makergeeks.com its their maker filament HD green glass. I started with this filament and it prints nicely. I am having issues making a fitbit holder with it as some of the walls on the model are thin and it likes to snap there. Ive printed it with 220c 230c 240c and 250c and it gets more brittle at the higher temps. layer bonding is low at 220. This is great filament for using solid objects with more beefy walls but for walls with 2 perimeters only is not good. My speed is set at 30mm/s and it prints good. bed is 60 c I have even printed at 40 c and no problems but I always use a glue stick just for reassurance.

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Re: PETG (PET)

Postby stonewater » Wed Nov 04, 2015 6:04 pm

I have the micro center translucent blue PETG on the max right now, I left my settings the same as my abs (95C bed 235 nozzle, E3DV6) worked really well with purple glue stick. that temp seems to give me good adhesion without too much stringing. have to add the wipe to my print. if I can print with a cooler bed that will be awesome!!

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Re: PETG (PET)

Postby Right to Make » Fri Nov 06, 2015 1:35 pm

I find that printing it hot like at around 250 c the part is more glossy. and printing 220 c its more of the filament gloss. but all around its a good filament, i made a shower part once with it that had threads in it and it would not hold threads, the layers came apart, then i printed a black abs duplicate of the same part and the threads did not pull out. So for a functional part requiring to hold threads ill stick with abs.

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Re: PETG (PET)

Postby javiercordero20 » Sun Nov 27, 2016 2:09 am

Hello guys,

Has anyone tried printing PETG on a Rostock Max v3? I am trying to dail it in now and I have some issues. I managed to get the first layer to stick directly on glass and with some hairspray but notice that the second pass (layer 2) usually turns into a mess with stuff sticking to the nozzle. I am printing with a Z-Offset since PETG likes a bit of distance from the bed. I have tried 210 - 230 and found 210-215 to be the best temperature for Inland PETG. higher than that and the filament turns milky.

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Re: PETG (PET)

Postby ccavanaugh » Sun Nov 27, 2016 2:53 am

I've been using it for quite some time for metal lathe fixtures and brackets and the strength has been more than adequate. It is a bit more flexible than PLA, so part design needs to account for the difference if it's an issue.

I've also been using it for garage wall brackets, to hang cords, lawn chairs, and a few other odds and ends. I've not had any issue with part creep due to heat.

My favorite application is fixtures for selective soldering of PCBs components. I can print 1.5mm walls without issue with a .4mm hotend and layer strength is more than good enough to make a reusable part that is a removable snap fit so boards can be de-paneled. The parts hold up well to the heated environment of the SS machine and help to lower the PCB cost considerable by not leaving permanent spacers behind on the board.


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