HE280 Bed leveling. Manual tips/tricks/tweaks?

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Harblar
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HE280 Bed leveling. Manual tips/tricks/tweaks?

Postby Harblar » Thu Apr 20, 2017 1:57 pm

Ok, so I'm pretty close to having this exactly where I want to be, but I'm still missing something. Let me explain exactly where I am at first, since maybe I'm just demanding to much perfection from printer. I'm not sure where the acceptable tolerances for everything are.

I've upgraded my V2 to the new carriages, ball arms, and he 280 hotend/accelerometer. I did multiple PID autotunes and then performed numerous G29 auto calibrations (heating bed to 100 and hotend to 250 and then turning both off before running the calibration.) I've then run the Delta Calibration and have gotten in the .09 -.1 range. I've then run another G29 Calibration cycle and I am managing to get a decent first layer though, after taking the calipers to it, I find that it's not perfect. Printing a single layer test ring @.3mm layer height results in a the layer being around .45mm-.5mm at the Y tower and from .1mm-.2mm at the opposite end (between the X and Z towers).

I've gone back over and tweaked all the physical settings I can think of. I adjusted all towers to be the exact same height (baseplate to top plate) +/- .5mm. I set all endstop screws to exactly the same height and verified that all the end stop switches were at the same distance from the top plate. I then verified that all carriages were at the exact same height after homing the towers. I checked and adjusted the height of the hot plate at each screw mounting point to be as close to the same height from the top of the base plate as I could. (average difference of .1mm or less across all points) I then checked the angles on all 3 towers and found all three to be within .4 degrees of square. (though a slight warp in the build glass may account for a bit of that deviation.)

Physically speaking, are all of these measurements within acceptable tolerances? I'm pretty sure at a layer height of .3mm I shouldn't be seeing a variance of more than +/- .05mm from one side to the other. What's left to do? A manual calibration? And if so, would I need to manually recalibrate every time I perform an auto calibration?

I've got some big prints I want to start in the next few weeks and want to make sure I have as dialed in as I can so I can ensure success, since I'll be busy elsewhere while my printer is running. I also won't have the time to perform a lengthy calibration process each day, either.

Anything I'm missing?

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