Getting Repeteir to move beyond Z0

[heathenx]

I'm not sure what to search for exactly but is their a way in Repeteir to move lower than Z0? In other words I'm trying to move in negative valves.

[DavidF]

I'm not sure what to search for exactly but is their a way in Repeteir to move lower than Z0? In other words I'm trying to move in negative valves.

Why would you want to move lower?? Im pretty sure the slicer wont go below Z0, but you could increase the printer height to where z0 is say like z 30, that way z 29 would be -z1 Does this hep??

[heathenx]

It might seem a little silly to want to go lower than 0 but I'm using the printer for something other than 3D printing. Right now I'm in a subtractive (CNC cutting) mindset instead of an additive (3D printing) mindset. Perhaps I can work with positive values after all if it can't be done. Might take a little gcode editing.

[teoman]

I had the idea of adding a micro cnc router on the machine. But it will probably not enjoy the stresses added on to it. Or the vibrations...

[heathenx]

I'm using a laser and a light weight rotary tool.

[teoman]

Do let us know about your setup. I have a 1w laser tha I would also like to install on to the rostock.

[heathenx]

I'm using an L-Cheapo kit. It's a 2w laser. So far I've gotten it to pass through .260" thick balsa but not cleanly. Not sure Ill ever need to cut balsa that thick but was curious.

Anyway, I just put together a new laser mount last Friday. I've taken out all of the vibration that I had with the previous mount. It just bolts right underneath my effector plate. Pretty simple. I can post a picture tomorrow if you're interested.

[teoman]

Yes I am.

Would you happen to have a link to the laser?

[teoman]

How do you have it configured? Connected to the second extruder output?


And how do you intend on doing the Gcode?

[heathenx]

Sure.

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/l-ch ... attachment

http://robots-everywhere.com/re_wiki/in ... in.LCheapo

I have an EC3 connector on my main hotend wires. I disconnect that and plug in my laser. I use an M104 S254 and M104 S0 to turn the laser on and off just like you would the hotend. I use Inkscape to draw the artwork and a laser engraver gcode export extension. Works well most of the time. I get an occasional glitch with the gcode but I'm rather satisfied with the results so far. I've only really had the thing working for a few weeks.

[heathenx]

Alright, here's what I have so far for the laser. I printed the thing out of PLA so it would be stiff. You want as little flex or vibration in the mount as possible. Especially so since this is a long mount. This particular design works very well. It's quite rigid when assembled. The whole point of it is so I can easily add it to the underside of the effector quickly. Attaching it can be a little tricky though. I use needle-nose pliers to get two of the nuts started. Still, it only takes me a minute or two to get it on and off. The driver can be separated from the heatsink and rewired off of the mount but I chose to keep it intact.

I haven't really had a chance to play around with various materials for engraving and cutting. Balsa is cheap and easy to cut. I have plenty of that stuff. I cut a star shape out of some .09" thick scrap balsa. You can see that it cuts quite sharp and cleanly (burned some stuff on the other side that came through). There is nothing to control the output of the laser. All depends on speed. Run your bot fast for engraving and slow for cutting when wired to the hotend. When wired to the fan you can control laser output. I've learned that there is a fan2 input on the RAMBo. All depends on how you wish to wire it. Since I already had an E3C connector on my hotend, I went that route.

As for the gcode, I use Inkscape and a laser plugin that I found here: http://polakiumengineering.org/1000-por ... er-cutter/

[jesse]

Alright, here's what I have so far for the laser. I printed the thing out of PLA so it would be stiff. You want as little flex or vibration in the mount as possible. Especially so since this is a long mount. This particular design works very well. It's quite rigid when assembled. The whole point of it is so I can easily add it to the underside of the effector quickly. Attaching it can be a little tricky though. I use needle-nose pliers to get two of the nuts started. Still, it only takes me a minute or two to get it on and off. The driver can be separated from the heatsink and rewired off of the mount but I chose to keep it intact.

I haven't really had a chance to play around with various materials for engraving and cutting. Balsa is cheap and easy to cut. I have plenty of that stuff. I cut a star shape out of some .09" thick scrap balsa. You can see that it cuts quite sharp and cleanly (burned some stuff on the other side that came through). There is nothing to control the output of the laser. All depends on speed. Run your bot fast for engraving and slow for cutting when wired to the hotend. When wired to the fan you can control laser output. I've learned that there is a fan2 input on the RAMBo. All depends on how you wish to wire it. Since I already had an E3C connector on my hotend, I went that route.

As for the gcode, I use Inkscape and a laser plugin that I found here: http://polakiumengineering.org/1000-por ... er-cutter/

I ordered an l-cheapo laser as well but it hasn't arrived yet. Can you share the 3d models for the mount? Maybe you could start a thread about it.

[teoman]

Looks pretty awesome.

How do you think a 1W version would do?

Too weak?

[heathenx]

I'm not sure what a 1W will do but if I already had one then I'd give it a go. You might have to take a few more pass around things you want to cut but it should engrave just fine.

I posted my mount on repables: http://repables.com/r/370

[heathenx]

Cut a business card sized glider this morning.

[jesse]

Nice, do you know which backer you were on IndieGoGo?

[heathenx]

I wasn't an indiegogo backer, officially. I came in just after the campaign was over. I was able to get mine with a bunch of others that he sent out.