anti warping disc

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cambo3d
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anti warping disc

Post by cambo3d » Sun Apr 14, 2013 1:26 am

how do I manipulate kisslicer so that I can add anti-warping disc's to my prints.

no matter what i do, i can't seem to get it where I want to place it, what's the technique here?

in other words, how do you get the disc underneath the printed objects?

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Re: anti warping disc

Post by cassetti » Sun Apr 14, 2013 11:28 am

cambo3d wrote:how do I manipulate kisslicer so that I can add anti-warping disc's to my prints.

no matter what i do, i can't seem to get it where I want to place it, what's the technique here?

in other words, how do you get the disc underneath the printed objects?


Never used KISS, so I can't comment on the 'right way'. But there's always more than one way to solve a problem. You can try this in the meantime:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16728 (It's slow to run, but is effective)
(No trees were killed to post this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.)

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Re: anti warping disc

Post by jesse » Sun Apr 14, 2013 11:57 am

You mean the raft?

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Re: anti warping disc

Post by cambo3d » Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:47 pm

no i'm talking about adding anti-warping disc below the print..

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Re: anti warping disc

Post by foshon » Sun Apr 14, 2013 3:31 pm

cambo3d wrote:no i'm talking about adding anti-warping disc below the print..



I have seen them called mickey mouse ears as well.
Purple = sarcasm

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Re: anti warping disc

Post by cambo3d » Sun Apr 14, 2013 3:36 pm

foshon wrote:
cambo3d wrote:no i'm talking about adding anti-warping disc below the print..



I have seen them called mickey mouse ears as well.


yes that's it, can you add these in kisslicer below the print or does it have to be done prior?

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Re: anti warping disc

Post by Polygonhell » Sun Apr 14, 2013 4:32 pm

cambo3d wrote:
foshon wrote:
cambo3d wrote:no i'm talking about adding anti-warping disc below the print..



I have seen them called mickey mouse ears as well.


yes that's it, can you add these in kisslicer below the print or does it have to be done prior?


No you have to edit the original model to add those.

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Re: anti warping disc

Post by cambo3d » Sun Apr 14, 2013 4:38 pm

I see, thanks!

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Re: anti warping disc

Post by jesse » Sun Apr 14, 2013 6:03 pm

No you have to edit the original model to add those.


Actually, I think i found the setting.
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Re: anti warping disc

Post by Polygonhell » Sun Apr 14, 2013 8:42 pm

jesse wrote:
No you have to edit the original model to add those.


Actually, I think i found the setting.


Bet roughness just increases the height of the first layer.

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Re: anti warping disc

Post by foshon » Mon Apr 15, 2013 6:14 am

Polygonhell wrote:No you have to edit the original model to add those.



Would it be possible to have stl's of varying sized circles and use the multiple model method to position them under the corners of the main print?
Purple = sarcasm

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Re: anti warping disc

Post by Polygonhell » Mon Apr 15, 2013 12:09 pm

foshon wrote:
Polygonhell wrote:No you have to edit the original model to add those.



Would it be possible to have stl's of varying sized circles and use the multiple model method to position them under the corners of the main print?


Most likely not, I've not tried it, but most slicers are extremely sensitive to bad geometry and don't like overlapping pieces.

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Re: anti warping disc

Post by halley » Mon Apr 15, 2013 6:08 pm

Polygonhell wrote:I've not tried it


As Dear Mr. Owl said, "Let's find out."

I have heard these things called a number of different names, but let's go with a fanciful one: frog toes. They are designed to latch onto the print bed, and give the minimum amount of easy knife cleanup work.

I quickly mocked up a simple 300 micron x 3mm radius frog toe STL, and a test part that is a simple half-cylinder shell.

Image
Image

I then took them over to Slic3r 0.9.9, the current version at this time. It had no conniption when parts overlapped.

Image

To confirm what I'd see on the print bed, I previewed the gcode in Pronterface. I know Repetier-Host's preview is more fancy, but I just don't like the rest of that app for some reason.

You can see some of Slic3r's shortcomings, but complaining about overlap wasn't one of them. The rasterizing code decided that there was no rectangle at the west end of the half-cylinder part, but the next layer up shows it just fine. I would need to save ASCII STL to see why that is, but I expect the west end's vertices are not at exactly Z=0.00000.

The frog toes are all included in the gcode, but might pose a little problem on non-heated beds. The paths are clearly overlapping instead of being incorporated as a union of shapes. The nozzle might push one path off the bed entirely if there was enough cooling between the two overlapping parts.

Image

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Re: anti warping disc

Post by cambo3d » Mon Apr 15, 2013 10:44 pm

I'm trying to get a handle on this warping with abs, so far i'm losing this battle.

I may end up swapping to pla when all my abs is used up. already prepping my rostock for it.

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Re: anti warping disc

Post by foshon » Tue Apr 16, 2013 5:09 am

cambo3d wrote:I'm trying to get a handle on this warping with abs, so far i'm losing this battle.

I may end up swapping to pla when all my abs is used up. already prepping my rostock for it.



Have you tried ABS juice. It's a bit messy, but I must admit that since switching to ABS juice and lowering my bed temp I been able to print some fairly sexy stuff with no/very little warping.

I swiped the end of a bottle of the old ladies nail polish remover. Oddly enough for a bit I thought the whole thing was hoopla. Turns out there is a fair amount of not acetone stuff in commercial nail polish remover. After I poured out the purple perfume liquid and added a bit more acetone I ended up with a thin pudding like gel that wipes on in thin layers with a paper towel.

There is no way to remove a part with the bed at temp without bending the snot out of it. Once everything cools though, a quick run around the part with a sharp knife and it peels right off.
Purple = sarcasm

Please do a board search before posting your question, many have been answered with very time consuming detail already.

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Re: anti warping disc

Post by cambo3d » Tue Apr 16, 2013 8:55 am

i'll give abs juice a try, i've just been using hairspray. need to go get some acetone.

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Re: anti warping disc

Post by gsnover » Tue Apr 16, 2013 3:54 pm

I have been using abs juice and I haven't had anything curl. I also use a brim. Every geometry is different, but it's been working for all my vase forms so far.

It's difficult to keep. The rubber seal in mason jar I am using is deteriorating fast. Maybe a small metal paint can would be better. I prefer to apply using a cheap foam brush. If you dip the brush in too far it will melt the glue holding the foam to the brush handle, but if you just dip the tip I find it puts on a nice even coat. Just let it dry hard afterward, you can reuse it no problem.
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Re: anti warping disc

Post by cambo3d » Fri Apr 19, 2013 9:55 am

finally gave abs juice a try and it seems to be working,

i'm 4hrs into a 16hr print and this thing seems to be well attached to the build surface. no signs of warping so far.
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Re: anti warping disc

Post by gsnover » Fri Apr 19, 2013 10:00 am

Cambo3d how are your ball joint arms working out? I saw trick laser has some nice ones for sale, but I haven't seen a lot feedback on that type of replacement. Do you think they will wear well and stay precise?
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Re: anti warping disc

Post by cambo3d » Fri Apr 19, 2013 10:08 am

gsnover wrote:Cambo3d how are your ball joint arms working out? I saw trick laser has some nice ones for sale, but I haven't seen a lot feedback on that type of replacement. Do you think they will wear well and stay precise?


see here viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228&start=280#p10225

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