24V Upgrade done slightly different

Check out how others are building and modding their own heated beds
User avatar
mattquist
Plasticator
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Dec 16, 2015 8:41 pm
Location: SW Florida

24V Upgrade done slightly different

Postby mattquist » Mon Aug 01, 2016 6:14 pm

I just completed a 24V upgrade, but instead of using a 24-12v converter, I used 2 12V power supplies in series. This allowed me to have both 24v and 12v on demand at the same time and eliminate the need for the converter. One less failure component I guess. Power supplies fit inside the base with room to spare, and I am just using an outlet strip to turn them both on at present (Both must be started concurrently or they get really angry at the unbalanced load). These are highly regulated server power supplies, and as such the voltage is very stable. This is fine with me, as I use the built-in on/off switch for the led's. I also added an additional 24v tap that I ran outside of the Rostock to power my R/C charger, which works fine. (Hence the power strip and led switch) .Voltages are fine and stable all of the time, whether heating the bed, extruder, or even charging batteries concurrently.

Heat dissipation was one of the things that I was initially worried about, as these are rather beefy power supplies. With the sides on, it's a bit hotter than I felt comfortable for the long-term life of melamine. However, by just taking one of the covers off temps run at about 10 degrees over ambient, which I'm really happy about. I plan on installing a small fan on one of the sides as soon as I locate a .stl of one of the sides, since I'm terrible at best at design; anyone have a copy? Will run a 24v fan on a 12v tap to keep db levels low. BTW, the power supply fans (remember there are 2 of them!) are variable and combined are quieter than the peek fan on my E3d, which is a HUGE plus to me, as I am usually in the workshop when I'm printing.

For those that are interested, the power supply was $96 delivered, with 1 12V, 2 24V pre-installed taps with terminated ends, 2 in 4mm banana plug females, and the other in a EC5 for my R/C charger. When you include not using the 24-12 converter, I think it's a heck of a good way to go.

Pics for reference. Wiring is all done with 10, 12, and just a little 14 gauge wire. and yes, I know that the leads from the SSR are backwards! Pics were taken before final review.

Lastly, I have printed for about 12 hours on this new setup so far without so much as a hiccup. Coming from the original ATX power supply, this is a world of difference, as just the LED's are brighter with a stable 12v running to them! Oh, and the sub 5 min heat-up to 110c for the bed!
Attachments
IMG_0241.jpg
IMG_0240.jpg
IMG_0239.jpg
IMG_0238.jpg
IMG_0237.jpg
IMG_0236.jpg
IMG_0235.jpg
IMG_0234.jpg
IMG_0232.jpg

User avatar
CodonExe
Printmaster!
Posts: 54
Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2016 10:44 pm

Re: 24V Upgrade done slightly different

Postby CodonExe » Mon Aug 01, 2016 11:40 pm

I did a very similar 24v system on mine as well. Its working great now for about 6 months. I just bought an additional stock 12v supply and tore into them so I could modify how the grounding system operated. Well done. :D
Rostock Max V2, Duet Wifi, IR Probe, PanelDue 7" LCD, Heated Enclosure, Firestop cans, Thermally Fused 12v E3D V6, Berd Air, Floating Thermally fused 24v Bed, Aluminum heat spreader, PEI, Dual 12v PSUs in series.

User avatar
626Pilot
ULTIMATE 3D JEDDI
Posts: 1716
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 12:52 pm

Re: 24V Upgrade done slightly different

Postby 626Pilot » Sat Jan 14, 2017 7:43 pm

It looks like you robbed an octopus tank! :D


Return to “Heated Bed How-To's”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests