Windshadow's Rostock Max V2 build

[Windshadow]

Well today as I set up a workspace in my living room to assemble my printer when it gets here monday ...I thought I might as well start a thread what I am sure will be filled with my requests.

while rummaging about in an old steamer trunk full of junk from my heath kit building days I found this item

[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/819 ... 0-%201.jpg[/img]
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/819 ... 0-%201.jpg[/img]

and that is a good indication of how long it has been as this item of equipment was a current item still in their catalog at the time since then i have had no need of a temperature controlled iron for the sort of home repair that one does from time to time

So, I have mentioned elsewhere that I want to be able in the future to swap out the hot end and a after looking at lots of different ways others have done this over the years (thank you google image search ) something simple seemed best.( I saw a few using gold plated connectors that could have been sourced from NASA and i expect cost as if they did if the builder had to buy them) I thought that something like this would be a way to go

[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/819 ... 0-%201.jpg[/img]

what are these called and where can I get some?

So I am thinking one that deals with 16 to 22 ga for the light current stuff the led ring ,the fan, and the thermistor, and 14 or so for the block heater
it has been so long since I have played with this stuff I have even forgotten what this sort of locking connector is called

embarrassed
Windy

[Xenocrates]

Those look like 4 pin MOLEX connectors. I actually was just looking at those.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE- ... aRnkGcY%3d female (I know it looks male, but the pins that go in it are female.)

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... u7TA%3d%3d Male

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... puCQ%3d%3d Female pins

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... Vwxg%3d%3d Male pins.

Fairly cheap, and nice high amperage. Each should be able to support 2 heater cartridge sets, of two cartridges each. Plus they are cheap and locking, so while they are overkill, they do pretty good.

[Windshadow]

Just the ticket Xeno thanks. and if memory serves they used an insert and remove tool to get the pins in and out of the shells as well
thanks for the links.

the handle on the heathkit iron above is made of wood i just noticed while testing it... and it still works after all this years

[Windshadow]

Well its 2:30 PM and the Brown truck was just here
the new box (45lbs) is 19.5" wide 33.25' long and 7" deep
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/819 ... %20box.jpg[/img]

and the very good news they don't ship with packing peanuts any more!
Thank You SeeMeCNC I was not looking forward to cleaning up a bushel of static cling peanut fragments

[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/819 ... %20box.jpg[/img]

as I unpack all seemed well till we got to the box the build plate is in and the ominous should of rattling glass is heard
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/819 ... 0plate.jpg[/img]

there are a handful of small bits of laser burnout Melamine rattling about inside the shipping box and they have punched some holes in the inner layer of cardboard they may have imposed a pressure point on the glass there is no damage to the outside of the shipping box

I sent the photo the SeeMeCNC and I am sure they will take care of it but they may want to consider something more than the foam envelope to protect the plate in the future

as i expected i got this from support. but no word when t will ship or when i should expect it

JJ Johnson (SeeMeCNC Support Desk)
Dec 7, 4:41 PM

Thanks for contacting support.

Sorry to hear about that glass plate. I have placed a replacement order to ship you out a new piece of glass. It will ship soon.

If you have any further questions, or there is anything else we can help with, please let us know.

JJ
SeeMeCNC

[Windshadow]

[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/819 ... otend1.jpg[/img]

Well the work proceeds... My RTV mess of a hotted speaks for my skill with a toothpick
I will Have to scrape a lot off when I finish it tomorrow

one other thing I learned today (even if i don't paint the edges{the burned melamine smell does not bother me I have wood fires in my 3 of my 6 fireplaces more often than not in the winter}) Is to allow more time to prep the pieces (remove the tape) so the things with RTV are done and the base assembled with its power supply I used a real tap So since it looks like I will not have my replacement (And 2 extras)Boro plate till late Friday afternoon, I have slowed down my schedule. Anyway building this is FUN! A kit as good as this with its fine instructions is not what I recall in my last foray into building things from kits.... about 20 years ago I helped a fellow pilot build a VariEZ airplane... and I never ever want to work in fiberglass over foam again
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/819 ... 0plate.jpg[/img]

[Windshadow]

Tonight I am at the end of page 83 Checkpoint video #10 (Gene what a great idea are your checkpoint videos, they add a large comfort factor during the build , I hope the SeeMeCNc realizes what a huge factor your manuals are in driving their sales... I looked at several Delta kit options before I ordered but your guides are what made the sale for SeeMeCNC along with the community that has been created in these forums)
The only suggestion I could make is to work in some testing at several points to be sure the components are installed correctly but I understand how hard that would be to incorporate.

the replacement plate as well as the 2 spares I bought will not be here until late Monday afternoon (UPS has been getting here after 6PM due I guess to the xmas rush) so I have slowed down the build to finish sometime Monday which I a plus for me as I am enjoying the process so much...

One thing I have learned is the at my advanced age I can not build from the PDF Manual on my iPad it caught me out twice when i had scrolled past a page and missed an item... totally my fault So now I Print out the manual and check off each item... a much safer method for me.

[Windshadow]

OK I have reached the end of the assembly manual except for fitting the 6 pieces of smoked plastic.... I feel that doing a total button up before I smoke test is just asking for it.

I try not to anger Murphy by being too confident.

so getting my courage up for the smoke test after lunch It has been a very long time since I put together any this this complex.... fire extinguisher at the ready

wish me luck

[Xenocrates]

Good luck. Have fuses at the ready, and if you let the smoke out, I hear tell you can buy genuine Lucas electrical smoke, complete with bullet connector, to put smoke back in the wiring harness.

[Windshadow]

Well attempting to upload .091 to the Rambo gives me this which I guess means A lot more reading to understand it I am on a mac which means the instructions don't quite match what i see on the screen
Arduino: 1.6.7 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

sketch/libraries/twi.c:1:17: fatal error: twi.c: No such file or directory
#include <twi.c>
^
compilation terminated.
exit status 1
Error compiling.

This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
enabled in File > Preferences.

[Eaglezsoar]

Well attempting to upload .091 to the Rambo gives me this which I guess means A lot more reading to understand it I am on a mac which means the instructions don't quite match what i see on the screen
Arduino: 1.6.7 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

sketch/libraries/twi.c:1:17: fatal error: twi.c: No such file or directory
#include <twi.c>
^
compilation terminated.
exit status 1
Error compiling.

This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
enabled in File > Preferences.

Try an earlier version of Arduino.

[Earthbound]

Based on recent thread "error uploading repetier", I suggest that you uninstall Ardunio IDE version 1.6.7 and then install version 1.6.1 which is the same version used in the tutorial.

[Windshadow]

the clear worked I think as both leds on the board are lit the orange and the green how do I find an early version of ardino and which one?
Arduino: 1.6.7 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

sketch/libraries/twi.c:1:17: fatal error: twi.c: No such file or directory
#include <twi.c>
^
compilation terminated.
exit status 1
Error compiling.

This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
enabled in File > Preferences.

[Windshadow]

oh I pulled the folder to the desktop to try to avoid path problems
/Users/na/Desktop/Repetier-091-ROSTOCKMAX-master/Repetier-091-ROSTOCKMAX/Repetier
and the contents are
Commands.cpp
Commands.h
Communication.cpp
Communication.h
Configuration.h
cores
Eeprom.cpp
Eeprom.h
Extruder.cpp
Extruder.h
fastio.h
FatStructs.h
gcode.cpp
gcode.h
HAL.cpp
HAL.h
libraries
Makefile
motion.cpp
motion.h
pins.h
Printer.cpp
Printer.h
Repetier.cbp
Repetier.depend
Repetier.h
Repetier.ino
Repetier.layout
SDCard.cpp
SdFat.cpp
SdFat.h
u8glib_ex.h
ui.cpp
ui.h
uiconfig.h
uilang.h
uimenu.h

[Eaglezsoar]

the clear worked I think as both leds on the board are lit the orange and the green how do I find an early version of ardino and which one?
Arduino: 1.6.7 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

sketch/libraries/twi.c:1:17: fatal error: twi.c: No such file or directory
#include <twi.c>
^
compilation terminated.
exit status 1
Error compiling.

This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
enabled in File > Preferences.

Get the V1.6.1 at https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/OldSoftw ... s#previous

[Windshadow]

it said update available for some libraries when I ran it in the older version

which I dismissed

and its running the the skates to the top and thunking but nothing on the lcd screen
on the plus side no smoke
amber light flasjong on the rambo board
the caridges ar at the top they thunk the end stop switches buz and drop about a 1/4 inch and repeat

Per the manual I re cleared the memory and tried again same result and of course the instruction to call support is not going to be much use till Monday

[geneb]

If there's no display on the LCD, you've got one or both cables flipped.

You could also have the interface board that those two cables plugged into, off by one or more pins.

g.

[Windshadow]

Thanks Gene I will take it apart in the morning Just home (by Taxi) from a round of xmas eve parties... it I tried to fix it now I would have a problem I am sure
with the neuropathy numbness in my fingers it would be an easy thing for me to do
The very best of Christmas to you and yours

[Windshadow]

[quote="geneb"]If there's no display on the LCD, you've got one or both cables flipped.

You could also have the interface board that those two cables plugged into, off by one or more pins.

g.[/quote]
You had it spot on Gene, I took a few min from cooking today to check and that is exactly what I did....

I guess was in a hurry to finish my christmasy gift to myself before the day I missed the fact that

Fig. 17.10-3: "A" & “B” cables installed.

had flipped orientation from

17.10-1: Adapter labeled.

on page 139 all due to my not following your fine words and music.... a very embarrassing face palm moment I had A to A and B to B but pin 1 was at the wrong end of each plugged into the daughter board
So when I sober up from the christmasy feast of roast beast tomorrow on Boxing day I will commence to calibrate ( if my reversal did not fry the LCD of course) then the 2 ABS fan shrouds and then over to PLA to learn the basics

Strong Christmas thanks to you all on the Forum eep yourself and MHackney and Eaglesoar

I am following your youtube build of the vintage 1984 Heathkit zenith PC with great interest as you are the writer of the best high tech build manuals of the present day what do you think of your predecessors at Heathkit? I loved the way all the envelopes were marked with part numbers and in some cases contents AS you can see from my first post in this thread I am using a heath kit soldering station from about 1969 that its what passed for temperature control back then.... just before I built it, I built an EICO DC tube type oscilloscope and EICO manuals were a real trial by comparison...then in about 1972 or so a 25" color tV after the group that owned Zenith also bought heath kit it had about 25 seprate circuit boards and took about a week to calibrate... you had to make your own degaussing coil I recall but it was still working fine when we sold the house where it was built in in 1986... My last heathkit was a high end digital Multimeter that was patterned after a shulmberger instrument in the early 80s and it still gives good service

now that you have worked with that 1984 heath kit for a while I would love to hear your thoughts on their manuals

Thanks again so much for all of your help and I hope Santa was as good to you as he was to me (I got a E3D v6 kit and a Build-Tec disc with trick laser AL heat spreader) for when I graduate from PLA and the stock hot end in a while after I get a handle on the basics

[Windshadow]

well I made it to page 29 this time and the auto tune of the hot end did fine and i have the averages for Kp 13.186 Ki 0.476 and Kd 91.79
the instructions are

In order to store your new set of PID values, we need to open up the EEPROM table editor. The EEPROM table editor is on the same screen as the terminal. Click on the CONFIGURE button next to “EEProm Settings” to open the editor.

and on the OS X version of matter control i can't find any configure button this is all I see for controls on the terminal window
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/819 ... %20pic.png[/img]
Where do i edit the EEPROM please

[Eaglezsoar]

Is this a help (I do not use OS-X ) http://wiki.mattercontrol.com/Changing_EEProm_Settings

[Windshadow]

yes that found it for me thanks
now i have the problem that the calibrate macro hammers the build plate on its down from the tower home and then drags the noxxel to the three spots and back to the centre i have re zeroed each time as well now done it 4 times and each one it seems that the plate will smash

one other thing clockwise on the knob moves the Z down and CC is up the knob turning is backwards from the manual

You control the height of the effector platform by turning the shaft on the LCD panel. Turning it counter-clockwise will lower the nozzle, and turning it clockwise will raise it.

all the controls on
MC move things in the right direction +up and - down on the Z for example
I used the command up 10 mm on the control after finding zero and then set the zero there 10mm above the bed and did the macro as an air test it ran at about 7mm above the bed is this a case of all 3 endstops set to incorrectly at the start? (set from the photograph of the short space in the build manual not the photo showing the longer endstop screw

yep that was it i loosened each stop screw one full turn and it is working but using sheets of paper as a feeler gauge is hard i think i will try some metric feeler gauges

all the manual instructions about using the knob on the LCD are reversed CC is clockwise commands and C is counter clockwise movement on the screens

[Windshadow]

alignment done to an acceptable first standard.the screw to adjust the endstop on the x tower is out so far that it wobbles but I seem to have a 2 sheet of paper gap all the way around on the tower cal macro and quite level from centre to outside positions I guess i need a slightly longer screw or I need to start over with the x screwed in to firmness and use the other two stop screws and Horz Angle adjust t (now at 143)

extruder calibrated to a so so standard... some anomaly in the way the macintosh mater controller is interfacing some times after disconnect reconnect the steppers don’t respond to commands and one time the x y z steppers connected but the extruder did not I
another time clicking extruder plus got nothing and all of the steppers were off on disconnect and reconnect the extruder came back and responded to the + - buttons but the towers ignored a home command from both the LCD and the MC another disco and recon and that all 4 steppers were back.... and I was recommanding the hot end and bed temps on each reconnect)
think i will call it for today after i do the extrude a blob test and take it up again in the morning my back is killing me from all the up and down from my knees (started the process about 6 hours ago)

I was trying for perfect like when I mount glass scales on my Bridgeport using gauge blocks and I at last realized I don't know enough yet to know what is acceptable till I start squirting plastic and measuring the results.for the tower iterations the hot end and hot bed are pid calibrated they over shoot by about 5c and occilate slightly and stabilize about 2c above the commanded temperature
Thanks for the pointer Eaglezsoar i was looking at the terminal window not the controls wind for that button

[Eaglezsoar]

Something in your alignment process is wonky. The stop screws should all be close to being the same height. From what you have written, it is difficult to determine where in the calibration things went wrong.
I suggest that you start over with the alignment by EXACTLY following the procedure in the manual. Do not depend on the pictures, read the text.
Please keep us informed if you get it working or not, we will not give up trying to help you.

[Windshadow]

[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/819 ... 20try.jpeg[/img]
I ran the x screw in far enough to be firm and redid caiabration and I thought I was doing ok here is my first attempt to extrude and print i was very happy with the surface finish too it was far better Than I expected for a first attempt....
then it was murphy's turn
yep it detached

then I wiped the build plate with a damp rag and reapplied the purple school glue from elmers as directed as you can see second attempt failed even earlier
you can see number one and 2 here (this is with SeeMeCNC midnight black abs the average size over about a meeter was 1.74mm)
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/819 ... tempt.jpeg[/img]
I received as an xmas gift from my sister a Trick laser AL heat spreader plate and a Build-tec disc but I wanted to learn how to work with the traditions beginners glue and glass I will try again in the morning I am tired need a nite cap

[lightninjay]

As many members will attest, black is one of the trickier colors to print with. It's like there's something in the dye that goes into the pellets before they extrude it into the spools or something.

Add to that you're printing black ABS out of the stock nozzle, and that tends to make things a bit more difficult, as ABS tends to usually need slightly higher temps than what the stock nozzle can produce.

Also take into account an enclosure for the printer helps to isolate the ABS from any external drafts that might make it detach from the build plate or warp/crack along seams.

Keep trying, possibly lay down a bit thicker application of the elmer's glue, and I'm sure you'll manage to get that shroud printed. You're well on your way!