Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

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Aflac
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by Aflac » Tue Mar 15, 2016 12:08 pm

I'm going to have to find or make a layer fan mount that will work with this set up.

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by bradjshannon » Tue Mar 15, 2016 1:37 pm

Beautiful build! I'm already copying a lot of it, but I may have to try the FSRs, too. Have you used them before? Is there good support for them with various controllers? I am completely unfamiliar and had to google just now to figure out what they do.

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by Windshadow » Tue Mar 15, 2016 2:30 pm


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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by mhackney » Tue Mar 15, 2016 3:38 pm

FSRs - use the JohnSL board to interface them to the controller and they will work with any of the major controllers. The JohnSL makes them look like a simple endstop switch and you connect them up as a Z min switch on most boards or on the extruder 1 endstop on the Duet boards.

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by Aflac » Tue Mar 15, 2016 9:01 pm

I got this kit http://www.ultibots.com/fsr-kit/
Seems to have everything you need to turn 3 FSRs into an endstop.

When I got to work today my friend had my fsr mounts. I'll post pictures after offspring goes to bed

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by Windshadow » Tue Mar 15, 2016 9:54 pm

sorry about that i did not drill down far enough on mhackney's blog here is the right page
http://sublimelayers.blogspot.com/2016/ ... -duet.html

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by mhackney » Tue Mar 15, 2016 11:05 pm

Thanks for posting that Windshadow. Maybe I should add to my signature:

"That PEI, FSR, QR, Duet guy" :)

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by Xenocrates » Tue Mar 15, 2016 11:40 pm

No, more like "The guy who specializes in finding the next de-facto upgrade"
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by bradjshannon » Tue Mar 15, 2016 11:53 pm

Uh wow, that is a helpful blog post, to say the least. And here I thought you were "that SSR guy." You seem to be a lot of people, it must be confusing.

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by Aflac » Wed Mar 16, 2016 12:35 am

Here is the promised picture of my fsr mounts, I'll spend a little time soon getting everything finished and I hope to be printing this weekend, I'll add more pictures add I get then taken
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by DerStig » Wed Mar 16, 2016 2:24 am

Someone needs to build metal mounts for the Metal max.... Just saying.

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by forrie » Wed Mar 16, 2016 2:58 am

DerStig wrote:Someone needs to build metal mounts for the Metal max.... Just saying.


Yeah ccavanaugh's new corner fsr mounts that work with the standard snowflake in aluminum would be pretty slick.
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by mhackney » Wed Mar 16, 2016 8:30 am

bradjshannon wrote:Uh wow, that is a helpful blog post, to say the least. And here I thought you were "that SSR guy." You seem to be a lot of people, it must be confusing.


Not too much, I give them all names so I can keep them straight in my head.

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by mhackney » Wed Mar 16, 2016 8:35 am

I am redesigning my mounts based on lots of experience (mine and others). Even my mounts where I attempted to not over constrain too much, are a bit over constrained. This is a killer for FSRs as they have to be able to move freely without binding. Full round pistons in round cylinders on all 3 points is way over constrained. A single piston/cylinder on one corner, a simple "peg in slot" at another to eliminate rotation around the first corner and a simple no -constraint pad is all that's needed.

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by Aflac » Wed Mar 16, 2016 12:33 pm

since my mounts are aluminium I put a little gun oil on them to help keep them from binding, it seems to work pretty good, no matter where i touch it triggers with only minimal pressure, but I am worried about binding, especially on the one near my beta tower, it is tighter than the others and does not allways move freely. i have not run a calibration test on it yet.

i still need to attache the magnets for my end stops, i am using hall effect sensors, I figure i will just glue the magnets onto the screw that normally presses the physical endstops and be good to go...I just need to find where my wife put the super glue.

My bed is sitting pretty high right now, i want to use those new mount design in the mas metal thread, but i need to get the printer up and running before i can print those. but that should fix my its mounted to high problem, and I dont need that extra 20mm or so of z height to print those things so i should be good to go.

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by bradjshannon » Wed Mar 16, 2016 2:34 pm

mhackney wrote:I am redesigning my mounts based on lots of experience (mine and others). Even my mounts where I attempted to not over constrain too much, are a bit over constrained. This is a killer for FSRs as they have to be able to move freely without binding. Full round pistons in round cylinders on all 3 points is way over constrained. A single piston/cylinder on one corner, a simple "peg in slot" at another to eliminate rotation around the first corner and a simple no -constraint pad is all that's needed.


Interested to see what you come up with. I'm just about ready to pull the trigger and add an FSR kit, but they'd be in imperfectly-printed mounts of some kind. I wonder how the design can be adjusted to tolerate variation/error in printing and keep itself aligned properly?

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by Aflac » Sat Mar 19, 2016 12:04 am

Ok, I have everything hooked up, but now i have an issue, as soon as i power the machine one of my heaters starts to heat. on the smoothieboard its what ever is hooked up to 2.7, i had that as my heat bed, and bam instant heat, i changed it to being the hotend, updated the config and still instant heat. ive searched my config and there is only the one reference to the 2.7 so i have no idea why its starting up automagically when i power on the board.

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by Eaglezsoar » Sun Mar 20, 2016 11:44 am

Aflac wrote:Ok, I have everything hooked up, but now i have an issue, as soon as i power the machine one of my heaters starts to heat. on the smoothieboard its what ever is hooked up to 2.7, i had that as my heat bed, and bam instant heat, i changed it to being the hotend, updated the config and still instant heat. ive searched my config and there is only the one reference to the 2.7 so i have no idea why its starting up automagically when i power on the board.


I don't have any idea why the bed is startiing heat immediately but I do want to thank you for starting this thread, I have learned a great deal and
I hope this thread continues.
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by Aflac » Sun Mar 20, 2016 1:28 pm

i have a thread in the smothieboard section about this issue and someone suggested its a failed mofset, so right now my plan is to just not use that connection, i have enough others that it wont hinder me. today was the move it from my garage where i have a small workshop set up for building things to my office area where i have computers and such so its calibration time....once the house is clean, my parents are visiting next week and my wife wants a clean house.

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by Aflac » Sun Mar 20, 2016 7:35 pm

So I hook the printer up to the computer, hit the home button in printrun and the trucks went the wrong way.

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by mhackney » Sun Mar 20, 2016 9:51 pm

That's not really a problem, you can either invert the direction in the config file or swap the two phases (pairs of wires to coils) on the steppers. You had a 50-50 chance when you wired the steppers.

Just FYI, commissioning any new printer, especially when you've never done it before, should be done slowly and methodically so as not to damage things (or worse). In this case, simply testing jogging one axis at a time to test that the steppers are configured properly before homing is preferred. Homing requires several subsystems working properly and it's best to separate those and test them individually.

First test endstops with M119 (this and other G and M codes else here: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code)
Then test that the steppers move in the right direction: position the carriages (all 3) about 100 mm down from the top. Then issue a G1 Z100 G200. The steppers should all move in the same direction, in unison, slowly, to move the carriages down.

etc...

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by Aflac » Sun Mar 20, 2016 10:12 pm

yeah ive done all that testing...i though things were moving the correct direction, but since its all pluses and minuses its hard to tell which way is which so perhaps i had it backwards, but yeah i have been very slow and methodical, and tested movement and end stops thoroughly. but if you think left is right then testing can be flawed, sometimes you dont know what you dont know until it bites you.

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by mhackney » Sun Mar 20, 2016 10:16 pm

Thats why I used Z as an example. Its easy to distinguish up from down :)

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by Aflac » Sun Mar 20, 2016 10:35 pm

so if i read your example correctly positive z should move down?

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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit

Post by Aflac » Sun Mar 20, 2016 10:42 pm

the documantation on the smothieboard site uses x as the example and says + should move right, it dosnt say if its my right or the printers right...grrr

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