Birch V2

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BenTheRighteous
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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby BenTheRighteous » Tue Jan 20, 2015 9:01 am

So I tried printing version 6.6 of the EZFlexStruder last night. Long story short, things were going very well until it came time to mount it to the stepper motor... your drive gear is oriented the opposite way mine is! Therefore, my teeth were not lining were not lining up with the bowden feed.

I tried removing the gear to reorient it, but when I assembled everything initially I loctited the grub screw in place as the manual suggested, so my fancy screwdriver just stripped it out rather than unscrewing it. I don't think I'll be able to disassemble anything without destroying something.

Sad to say, but I had to fall back on reassembling the stock EZStruder. Looks like the EZFlexStruder won't be an option at least in the short term. :(
nitewatchman wrote:it was much cleaner and easier than killing a chicken on top of the printer.

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Nylocke » Tue Jan 20, 2015 10:40 am

Yeah, I had to flip it in order to make sure the Bowden coupling would fit without interfering with anyone's setups. Also issues with the idler (the 608 version) being centered on the filament.

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Lightpath
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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Lightpath » Wed Jan 21, 2015 7:24 am

This thread is fascinating.

Would you be willing to do a guide on your FSR leveling system?

Here's what i have gleaned so far:

1. Print off your puck mounts for the FSRs
2. Install the pucks with the FSRs in them
3. Wire the FSRs up to something?
4. Send G29
5. Profit?

This thread is brilliant. Thank you.

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Nylocke
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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Nylocke » Wed Jan 21, 2015 10:52 am

There is an FSR board from TriDPrinting that works very well. All 3 FSRs connect to it, and then 3 wires (+5V, GND, SIG) connect to the Z min endstop pin.

Marlin has a couple branches that work, but you make have to tinker with some of the settings to get smooth movements out of them.

Repetier finally released a stable .92 build which is what I am using now. the guide to use that is here http://www.repetier.com/documentation/r ... z-probing/

A new version (v1.04) of my Marlin firmware update (with auto-calibration update) is now available at the following location:

https://github.com/RichCattell/Marlin/releases

I thought I would start a new thread with some instructions for its use as I have had lots of questions about this and the old thread is getting quite long and hard to search through!

This version has a much improved auto-calibration function which will hopefully be able to cope with many more printer configuration errors than previous versions were capable of resolving.

The auto-calibration can now automatically adjust the following printer configuration variables:

· Delta Radius

· Diagonal Rod Length

· Software Endstop Offsets

· Z-Height Correction

· Tower Position Error Correction (independent Radius and Radial position adjustment for each tower)

All of these values can also be changed manually if desired using the M666 command .



The following G-Code commands are have been added to the standard marlin firmware:

G30 This command is used to perform reporting and auto-calibration of a delta printer and has several options, as follows:

G30 Probe bed and produce a report of the current state of the printer, e.g.:

Z-Tower Endstop Offsets
-0.0125 X:-3.05 Y:-1.83 Z:-2.69
-0.0000 -0.0000 Tower Position Adjust
-0.0625 A:-0.04 B:0.05 C:-0.01
-0.0375 -0.0250 I:0.25 J:-1.25 K:-0.37
-0.0250 Delta Radius: 109.5965
X-Tower Y-Tower Diag Rod: 224.5935

This option does not change any settings, but is useful when manually calibrating a printer, using the M666 command to change values.

G30 Xnn Ynn Probe bed at specified X,Y point and show z-height and delta carriage positions, e.g.:

Bed Z-Height at X:30.00 Y:30.00 = 0.0000
Carriage Positions: [176.40, 207.77, 209.52]

G30 A Start auto-calibration. This will attempt to calibrate the printer, adjusting all
parameters automatically, and will repeat the bed probing sequence show above
several times adjusting each time until calibration is complete.
It is recommended that you use M502 to load default values and then M500 to save
them prior to starting the auto-calibration.

To save the settings after the auto-calibration is complete, use the M500 command.

M666 L List all current configuration values , e.g.:

Current Delta geometry values:
X (Endstop Adj): -3.05
Y (Endstop Adj): -1.83
Z (Endstop Adj): -2.69
P (Z-Probe Offset): X0.00 Y10.00 Z-5.60
A (Tower A Position Correction): -0.04
B (Tower B Position Correction): 0.05
C (Tower C Position Correction): -0.02
I (Tower A Radius Correction): 0.25
J (Tower B Radius Correction): -1.25
K (Tower C Radius Correction): -0.37
R (Delta Radius): 109.60
D (Diagonal Rod Length): 224.59
H (Z-Height): 255.73

All of these values can also be adjusted using the M666 command, e.g. to set the delta radius to 200mm, use:

M666 R200

Or to change the Z-Height to 350.5 mm:

M666 H350.5

Commands can also be combined, e.g. to set endstop values:

M666 X-2.04 Y-1.02 Z-1.52

All of these values can be saved/loaded to/from EEPROM using standard M500/M501 G-Code commands (to save the settings at any time just type M500). This makes manual configuration of a printer much easier as there is no longer a requirement to edit the configuration.h file and re-upload firmware for each time a change needs to be made.



Configuration.h now includes the following additional parameters:

Set start and end locations used to deploy the Z-Probe:

#define Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_START_LOCATION {20, 96, 30, 0}
#define Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_END_LOCATION {5, 96, 30, 0}
#define Z_PROBE_RETRACT_START_LOCATION {49, 84, 20, 0}
#define Z_PROBE_RETRACT_END_LOCATION {49, 84, 1, 0}

Set precision for autocalibration G30 function – calibration will complete when this value is reached – all probed points have to be at 0 +/- 0.015mm (for 0.03 setting below)

#define AUTOCALIBRATION_PRECISION 0.03 // mm

Set radius to probe bed at for G30 function

#define BED_DIAMETER 170 // mm


thats the important information for the (older) Marlin branch with the fancy auto leveling


With either option you will need a well built machine though. It doesn't hurt to try to hand calibrate it first and then use the auto leveling to dial it in a bit further. .92 also has a more detailed probing option that can develop a normal map of the bed to overcome +/-.2mm differences.

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Lightpath » Thu Jan 22, 2015 1:18 am

Nylocke wrote:There is an FSR board from TriDPrinting that works very well. All 3 FSRs connect to it, and then 3 wires (+5V, GND, SIG) connect to the Z min endstop pin.

Repetier finally released a stable .92 build which is what I am using now. the guide to use that is here http://www.repetier.com/documentation/r ... z-probing/

With either option you will need a well built machine though. It doesn't hurt to try to hand calibrate it first and then use the auto leveling to dial it in a bit further. .92 also has a more detailed probing option that can develop a normal map of the bed to overcome +/-.2mm differences.


That's enough to get me headed in the right direction, thanks!

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Nylocke » Wed Jan 28, 2015 10:29 pm

Haven't posted for a while, but Ive been busy.

I ordered 3 V6 heater blocks and nozzles from E3d, tired of the crappy kapton job that I did when I first installed my hotend, and I've been having PLA issues. My Kraken looks much more neat right now, and PLA is feeding through a lot nicer.

I had 2 dampers installed from day one that I finally removed. I concluded that they were the source of some recent behavior, causing misaligned layers and issues with the top solid infill. I think bot figured this out and posted about it in a thread I started about some extrusion issues.

Ive been busy with an older Prusa I2, Ive had it chugging away printing some parts to revive my Ultimaker as a test to make sure it can handle longer prints. I won't have it for much longer, since Ive been working on it for my local Makerspace.

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Lightpath » Sun Feb 01, 2015 12:12 pm

Nylocke wrote:There is an FSR board from TriDPrinting that works very well. All 3 FSRs connect to it, and then 3 wires (+5V, GND, SIG) connect to the Z min endstop pin.

Repetier finally released a stable .92 build which is what I am using now. the guide to use that is here http://www.repetier.com/documentation/r ... z-probing/


With either option you will need a well built machine though. It doesn't hurt to try to hand calibrate it first and then use the auto leveling to dial it in a bit further. .92 also has a more detailed probing option that can develop a normal map of the bed to overcome +/-.2mm differences.


My machine is actually doing quite well- I'm thrilled with the prints I get out of it. I just want to dial it in one step further, especially on the first layer.

You wouldn't want to post your 0.92 configuration.h would you, for those of us that are beyond lazy? I got all the hardware done, that part was easy. The firmware part is turning out to be slightly more complex than I thought it would be.

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Nylocke » Sun Feb 01, 2015 1:05 pm

The issue with that is my hardware is vastly different from most. Between the Kraken and the X3 Pro, I even have the endstops different (carried over from my Ultimaker because I'm lazy, the maxes are in the min spots). I'll change my config file to one that more closely matches a standard MAX to ease your setup though. Try it at your own risk, I don't know how it will work.
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.92.2 config file
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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Nylocke » Sun Feb 01, 2015 7:57 pm

Update at almost 24 days of printing. Removal of the dampers has yielded significantly better prints. I printed a few dial indicator mounts that came out very nice.

The indicator mounts were for some leveling routines I was going through as prescribed by 626Pilot. I was doing his original quadrant based system by hand to figure out the rotation offsets. I haven't done any large prints to test the changes but so far my prints have been doing fine.

When I get done with these nylon prints for a client I'm going to print another EZflexstruder to do a mini build guide down in the mods and upgrades section. Once I get this thing printing level I can finally focus on getting the 3rd nozzle on the Kraken wired up and fired up.

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby JFettig » Sun Feb 01, 2015 8:43 pm

Nylocke wrote: Removal of the dampers has yielded significantly better prints. I printed a few dial indicator mounts that came out very nice.


I've been wondering about this one - this hunch I had about this is the reason I never ordered them - it sure would be nice to have it much quieter while I sleep though!

Do you have any issues with the pivot arm on the ezflexstruder deforming under spring tension?

Take some measurements of your spring and punch them into the leespring website to see if you can find a suitable match - or at least some specs to look over on mcmaster carr with. If that doesn't work, send me some dims - wire diameter, spring diameter, unsprung length, and number of turns, I wrote a spreadsheet I have somewhere that will calculate spring rate and all that just from physical dims.

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Nylocke » Sun Feb 01, 2015 9:05 pm

Ive got it designed to not deform. V6.6 has a reinforced arm that should not deform while using the stock EZstruder spring.

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby bot » Mon Feb 02, 2015 12:05 am

I have definitely seen myself how much those dampers can flex! And I've seen how if the cheapskate has too much grip on the extrusion, the damper will move and not the cheapskate. I've been able to slack off the cheapskate tension and things have settled down, but now I'm wondering if the dampers DO cause some kinda problems? At the moment It's printing VERY nicely with the cheapskates slacked off. How much of an improvement did you notice after removing the dampers? What kinda problems were rectified?
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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Nylocke » Mon Feb 02, 2015 12:29 am

The issue highlighted here viewtopic.php?f=77&t=7050 was the most common. Other issues were more circumstantial with each part. I had one with only a couple line thick walls that on one side the extrusion lines were offset half a mm or more. Other issues included small shifts in layers, not super noticeable with regular filaments, but with my silver ABS it shows.

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Lightpath » Mon Feb 02, 2015 2:23 am

This is really interesting- I have dampers on all of my steppers except the cold end, and my prints are very nicely aligned... I recently tightened them though, in order to try to dampen out a vibration that was waking my GF up. I'm going to try printing off the make magazine z-resonance object and see what happens in taller prints. Right now everything I print is less than two inches. I mostly print small parts for my telescope.

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Lightpath » Wed Feb 04, 2015 7:04 am

I got the FSR and board installed and working. Unfortunately when I compiled 0.92 I neglected to recall that two of my steppers are reversed. That torqued apart the effector plate before I could figure out something was wrong. Anyway, I have two new ones on the way. :)

I am still working the kinks out, and figuring out the best way to do a bump map, but I'm making progress. Thanks Mike.

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Nylocke » Wed Feb 04, 2015 4:32 pm

Sorry about the effector, I should have probably mentioned to hold your hand on the power button when you do your first home.

On a slightly unrelated note, my local Makerspace's Rostock MAX that they got that KC Makerfaire came with the aluminum U-joints and I'm guessing unlubricated axles. I had a bunch of acetal U-joints from the original build of my printer, and I was noticing some "delta arm blues" type symptoms on their prints, so I offered my U-joints. Last night we swapped them out, and found that most of the aluminum joints had completely seized up on the axles themselves, and so they were actually moving the axles in the mounts. We got them swapped and recalibrated and now its chugging away again. If anyone still has the aluminum joints and they haven't lubricated them, I'd check them out and lubricate or replace them, especially if your infill lines aren't reaching your perimeters.

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Nylocke » Mon Feb 09, 2015 11:09 pm

I done did Pilot's arm mount extruder design. It is "compatible" with my extruder design with a "small modification". I'll get some pictures when I can get some better lighting. The retaining clip had to be trimmed on one side to not interfere with the 608 I use, since it sticks out a bit more than the standard bearing. I haven't done any prints with it yet (I actually need to make another one, I made the first for EXT1 so if I screw anything up I can not screw it up for EXT0) but if it works without impacting quality too much it will become a permanent addition to my printer. I'm super excited about this mod, its one of the coolest design changes I've seen for a 3D printer since CoreXY.

If you have no idea what I'm talking about, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:670995

Also, I've switched to KISS. Prints are turning out very great. I did one of the standard calibration cubes, I'll post a pic of that when I get better lighting as well. It turned out great. Bridging was good, and using Michael's printing guide I've lowered my print temps a good 10-15 degrees and things have been going a lot better. Also some better extruder calibration has helped quite a bit too (just did the standard "trim at this point, extrude 100mm and measure if it pushed out 100mm" type calibration).

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Eaglezsoar » Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:21 pm

Mike, thank you for the Marlin code explanation. Are you running Marlin on all your deltas of just one?

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Nylocke » Wed Feb 11, 2015 1:32 am

I don't have Marlin running on anything right now. I only have the one printer. I would run Rich's branch of Marlin, or Johann's, but I can't get it to run without stuttering during printing and Rich's is a bit older so its not compatible with my electronics. If I really cared enough I could get some pin definitions in, but Viki support is sort of doubtful as well.

I just opted for smooth movements with Repetier and I'm going to try using Michael's compensation code after I do some tower rotation correction trials. Going to do that sometime soon and post my methodology. Similar to Pilot's original methodology, but probably with 3 points, spaced 60 degrees off of the 3 main points done with a standard calibration. Then I should be able to see the effect the tower rotations are making to the places that matter. Obviously, if Repetier's probing worked better and corrected tower rotations I wouldn't have a need to do this, but unfortunately that isn't so.

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Nylocke » Fri Feb 13, 2015 8:13 pm

Finally getting to tuning my Kraken in dual extrusion. Having issues with .92 Repetier handling the offset moves on homing. It homes correctly twice after each power cycle, and then any other time after that it makes a crashing sound and gets offset. I've dealt with this once before (the .92 beta) and to be honest, I don't even want to deal with it, so I've removed my extruder offsets in firmware and I've resolved to do them in the slicer.

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby JFettig » Fri Feb 13, 2015 8:56 pm

Is it coming off the home switches far enough to allow it to move in the direction it asks? Keep in mind, when you try to move in the x-y plane from home position, one or more axes will go up.

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Nylocke » Fri Feb 13, 2015 9:21 pm

Maybe not, but the offsets in firmware are in steps while the slicer ones are in mm. Less "confusing" (not really confusing, but the fewer weird conversions I have to deal with the better).

Got some test prints going.
2015-02-13 20.03.01.jpg
First tests

First one done is on the left. it was around 1mm off in the X direction. Second one was off around .2mm in the opposite x direction. The latest changes print just finished.
2015-02-13 20.14.48.jpg
Latest Test

Looks like it was off a bit in the y direction this time.

Second bit of news is a video. Newer print with the mod 626Pilot made. Works nicely http://capcart.tumblr.com/post/11090295 ... -626pilots The loudest steppers were the extruder steppers. Now they are whisper quiet. In fact, the first time I checked the primary extruder, I actually thought I didn't wire it correctly because I couldn't even hear it.

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Nylocke » Sat Feb 14, 2015 4:47 pm

Getting some great results with dual color/material prints! Turns out, Ninjaflex sticks rather well to ABS, good news for myself and one of my clients.

2015-02-14 12.33.30.jpg
First Attempt


I had two failed attempts (one being my fault) before it turned out. I had to turn off retraction on the Ninjaflex, even with the shortened tubes retract really doesn't work with Ninjaflex. It also oozes to hell, I was having it dribble all over during extruder changes. Good thing I updated KISS, it wouldn't have survived without the wall. Don't want to share the successful print pictures in case my client doesn't want this spread around too much.

These were from last night:

2015-02-14 12.33.01.jpg
Tuning the offsets


Got the offsets pretty near perfect. KISS decided to loose them on the update, so I had to guesstimate what I got from last night. Looks like I got them right from my dual prints from today.

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby Nylocke » Mon Mar 02, 2015 7:14 pm

I got some toys from PrintedSolid to play with today.

2015-03-02 17.48.21.jpg
Pasta


2015-03-02 17.48.35.jpg
Wood

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Re: Mike's Birch V2

Postby mhackney » Mon Mar 02, 2015 7:52 pm

Both great filaments. I love the PP carbon fiber filament. It prints nicely and the parts are strong.

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