Another rostock max build

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Flateric
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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by Flateric » Sun Apr 28, 2013 3:43 pm

No I have not used em yet. Although I was assured by the guy selling them that they work with the board. But then again, you never know with ebay guys. I was hoping to use one on each hotend and one on the bed in my dual setup I am planning to get to today.

So many project so very little time.

I need to start printing out some more of me!

Then that would really be the doom of us all, LOL.
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Eaglezsoar
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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by Eaglezsoar » Sun Apr 28, 2013 6:18 pm

I think you'll find that these will not work directly. They need the interface to the Rambo.

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cambo3d
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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by cambo3d » Sun Apr 28, 2013 6:47 pm

i thought flateric was using a standalone pid controller, it came with its own thermistor/thermocouple?

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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by Eaglezsoar » Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:12 pm

Cambo3D, when you mounted the new arms, I noticed that you used nylon lock nuts that were upside down. The nylon screwed into the screw first instead of the base of the nut.
Try as I will, I cannot get a nylon lock nut to screw onto a screw backwards such as you did. Could you tell me how to do that?

Carl

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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by cambo3d » Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:26 pm

Eaglezsoar wrote:Cambo3D, when you mounted the new arms, I noticed that you used nylon lock nuts that were upside down. The nylon screwed into the screw first instead of the base of the nut.
Try as I will, I cannot get a nylon lock nut to screw onto a screw backwards such as you did. Could you tell me how to do that?

Carl


you need to thread it first. I did this by screwing the bolt into the nut the usual way until it came out the other end. this starts the thread in the nylon.

then unscrew it and put the nut on backwards.

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Flateric
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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by Flateric » Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:53 pm

cambo3d wrote:i thought flateric was using a standalone pid controller, it came with its own thermistor/thermocouple?


No, I have tried them out and they are nice, but I will continue to use the built in thermistor and temp control systems on this 3rd Rambo, until they give up.

The I will go with the seperate tempurature control system for each subsystem.

Those little controllers you help me pick though. Slick units. And as always much smaller than the pictures on ebay would lead you to believe, which in this case is actually a good thing.
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hall effect endstop/home switch testing success

Post by cambo3d » Sun Apr 28, 2013 10:05 pm

this is really easy to set up, just change some values in firmware and its ready to go.

testing on the bench
CIMG2025.JPG


proof
hall effect switch testing.jpg


firmware setup
hall effect firmware config.jpg

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Re: TL-1 comparison photos with some mods of my own

Post by foshon » Mon Apr 29, 2013 11:19 pm

cambo3d wrote:thought id show off my other build side by side,

tricklaser lightweight arms,
longer extrusions in black
hall effect endstop switches
testing custom turn buckle belt tensioner
testing mic6 with 24v silicone heat pad
testing all metal hotend
testing direct mounted extruder
CIMG2021.JPG



What's the final belt length on the 4" higher unit? I'm considering this as an option to make up for lost room if I mount my micro under the platform.
Purple = sarcasm

Please do a board search before posting your question, many have been answered with very time consuming detail already.

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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by cambo3d » Mon Apr 29, 2013 11:49 pm

you'll need around 245in of belt.

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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by foshon » Tue Apr 30, 2013 1:13 am

Thank you sir.
Purple = sarcasm

Please do a board search before posting your question, many have been answered with very time consuming detail already.

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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by Eaglezsoar » Tue Apr 30, 2013 6:49 am

Cambo3D, you told me how to get the nylon lock nuts on backwards and by golly it worked! Thank you.
I would like to see how you mount those hall effect sensors, those little micro-switches are a real pain to line
up with the screw head, the holes for the screws seem to be in the wrong place. We really need an alternative
and I think your idea will be great. I am looking forward to seeing some pictures on what you came up with for
the mounting of those hall effects. You are always coming up with great ideas and I love to steal em. :P

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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by Eaglezsoar » Tue Apr 30, 2013 8:11 am

I have searched Ebay looking for those Hall Effect sensors you purchased. Would you mind posting your source for those?

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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by cambo3d » Tue Apr 30, 2013 12:03 pm

I got them from ebay awhile ago because they were selling them at a discounted price for this particular model. Ive had them in my electronics pile for quite sometime. here is the part number for it. 103sr13a-10.

note though: you can use almost any type hall affect switch, mine just has this fancy metal casing around it.

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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by Eaglezsoar » Tue Apr 30, 2013 12:24 pm

I am going to check out using the hall effect sensors that are about the size of a transistor. I think they would be easier to mount
and would fit the scale of the Rostock better. Place the hall effect sensor where the microswitch is now and maybe a small magnet on
the end of the screw. Just thinking out loud, if I come up with something I'll post it.

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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by foshon » Tue Apr 30, 2013 1:21 pm

Eaglezsoar wrote:I am going to check out using the hall effect sensors that are about the size of a transistor. I think they would be easier to mount
and would fit the scale of the Rostock better. Place the hall effect sensor where the microswitch is now and maybe a small magnet on
the end of the screw. Just thinking out loud, if I come up with something I'll post it.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-Hall-Endstops-react-on-magnetism-3D-printer-reprap-prusa-mendel-etc-/150872387181?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item2320b1ee6d
Purple = sarcasm

Please do a board search before posting your question, many have been answered with very time consuming detail already.

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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by Eaglezsoar » Tue Apr 30, 2013 1:25 pm

foshon, I have a set of those, they are so large it is difficult to figure out how to mount them.
Thanks for the link tho brother foshon.

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turnbuckle idea

Post by cambo3d » Sat May 04, 2013 2:04 pm

so i finally found some heavy duty turnbuckles and ball ends that fit the stock screw sizes, here are the pics in comparison.

CIMG2041.JPG

installed
CIMG2048.JPG

CIMG2042.JPG

CIMG2050.JPG
Last edited by cambo3d on Sat May 04, 2013 4:26 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by Polygonhell » Sat May 04, 2013 3:20 pm

Eaglezsoar wrote:I am going to check out using the hall effect sensors that are about the size of a transistor. I think they would be easier to mount
and would fit the scale of the Rostock better. Place the hall effect sensor where the microswitch is now and maybe a small magnet on
the end of the screw. Just thinking out loud, if I come up with something I'll post it.


FWIW I think using a hall effects the magnet must pass by the sensor not move directly towards it.
You should read the datasheet for the sensor and look at how they recommend using it.

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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by cambo3d » Sat May 04, 2013 3:42 pm

Polygonhell wrote:
Eaglezsoar wrote:I am going to check out using the hall effect sensors that are about the size of a transistor. I think they would be easier to mount
and would fit the scale of the Rostock better. Place the hall effect sensor where the microswitch is now and maybe a small magnet on
the end of the screw. Just thinking out loud, if I come up with something I'll post it.


FWIW I think using a hall effects the magnet must pass by the sensor not move directly towards it.
You should read the datasheet for the sensor and look at how they recommend using it.


you can use it either way,

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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by Flateric » Sat May 04, 2013 4:12 pm

Where did you get you hands on those, hobby store? What's the blue one at the bottom?
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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by cambo3d » Sat May 04, 2013 4:18 pm

Flateric wrote:Where did you get you hands on those, hobby store? What's the blue one at the bottom?


that's my bling bling 5mm adjustment wrench :mrgreen:

im gonna gather up all the part numbers to the parts I used and post them up for you guys. along with the dxf file for the longer top support plates.
Brian from trick laser cut these top plates for me when I ordered my tl-1 frame. Maybe he wont mind doing some of these for you guys also.

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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by Eaglezsoar » Sat May 04, 2013 5:08 pm

Don't forget the part number for the wrench, that thing is COOL!

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cambos T-buck tensioner parts list and files.

Post by cambo3d » Sat May 04, 2013 6:00 pm

Turn buckle tensioner parts, FOR modified top supports.


I purchased some of these items in bulk, the quantities needed for assembly are in parenthesis ( ).

(1) Dubro - DUBQ2316 – 12 pack of monster ball links, package has hardware needed for installation so don’t lose the parts

(3) Packages of Great planes – GPMQ3754- Turnbuckle/pushrod, these come two per package.
(6) 2.5in 6-32 screws Mcmastercarr part# 91772A161
(12) 6-32 washers or #6 washers
(3) 5/16 OD x 1.5in length nylon spacers for #6 screws. Mcmastercarr part # 94639A371

(1) 5mm adjustment wrench, towerhobbies.com carries an assortment of these, just pick one you like. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... mm+wrench& search=Go

(6) Modified top support plates dxf file below.


Notes:
All the turnbuckles will need to be cut down slightly, they are 54mm in length, I removed 4-6mm off each end to give me the adjustment range I needed. If you can find shorter length turnbuckles in the 6-32 size and around 42mm that would be a better fit for the current top support plates. You can also modify the dxf file so that there is more spacing in between the very top and the bottom hole, that way you don’t have to cut down the turnbuckles. My top support plates were already cut so I did the later.

If you need to cut down the 6-32 turn buckle, this can be accomplished with just some wire strippers that have 6-32 bolt cutters integrated, makes quick work of it. Just use a file to remove any burrs.

dxf files for modified top support plates.
top tensioner dxf file metric.dxf
(577.29 KiB) Downloaded 26 times
top tensioner dxf file standard.dxf
(330.94 KiB) Downloaded 20 times
Last edited by cambo3d on Sun May 05, 2013 3:26 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by cambo3d » Sat May 04, 2013 6:58 pm

my all metal hotend arrived today also,

looks pretty, this is for 3mm filament so im waiting on some other things to test this out.
CIMG2056.JPG
CIMG2058.JPG

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Re: Another rostock max build

Post by Flateric » Sat May 04, 2013 9:20 pm

Nice! A trinity labs one, I grabbed one of them too. Shame about the 3mm only so far from them.
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