Aligning the 3 towers

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screener
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Aligning the 3 towers

Postby screener » Mon Dec 12, 2016 9:06 pm

Has anyone made a jig that would help ensure parallelism of the three towers. Or Could you please explain how to go about making this. I am not really having much success with a set-square to align everything.

How do you all make sure it stays in alignment as it's seems easy to knock out of alignment.
Thanks in advance

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Jimustanguitar
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Re: Aligning the 3 towers

Postby Jimustanguitar » Tue Dec 13, 2016 1:27 am

A friend brought some 24" calipers to The MakerHive the other week, and we measured the distance between my printer's towers at top and bottom. The results were quite close, closer than any of us thought they'd be. I believe that there was only about a half mm difference between top and bottom on the worst one.

Take that measurement, and then check with a machinists square or a bevel gauge, and you'll know how close you are. Chances are that if it's a V2 or V3, it'll be very close.

screener
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Re: Aligning the 3 towers

Postby screener » Tue Dec 13, 2016 11:43 am

I guess the problem I see is that the spacing of the towers is determined bu the laser cut wood so measured at the top an the bpttom would be the same as designed. But the top can be pushed in any horizontal direction wrt the base and can be twisted wrt the base. So your suggestion of a set square is probably the best I can do I think.
I just wondered if anyone had thought of a better way to adjust any twist or slue of the head vs the base.

My enclosure is a surrounding structure that will support the head and the base but I'm having trouble getting it really true before locking in place. I will have handles on the enclosure so that I don't have to manhandle the towers to move the system

ccavanaugh
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Re: Aligning the 3 towers

Postby ccavanaugh » Tue Dec 13, 2016 12:02 pm

This is how I check for alignment. A framing square was not working for me.

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=4339

nebbian
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Re: Aligning the 3 towers

Postby nebbian » Tue Dec 13, 2016 9:27 pm

The way I do it (not sure if it's applicable to your printer) is to use 4 wires, two per face in a cross, diagonally bracing the two faces that are not facing you. The wires each have a turnbuckle in them, so you can adjust the lean and twist by twisting the turnbuckles. You need to ensure that the wires are far enough out from the build plate so as not to foul the effector when it's printing at the edge of the plate.

So the face between X and Z towers have a cross, and likewise the face between Y and Z. The one between X and Y doesn't get a cross because then you wouldn't be able to reach in and remove your print!

This has worked well for me on two printers.


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