Mhackney's Rostock Max

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sLpFhaWK
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Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Postby sLpFhaWK » Wed Aug 24, 2016 3:00 pm

oh I was going to start a new thread, but I stumbled on yours and saw you were in MA so I wanted to see if you wanted to help assemble it =) I am chatting with JJ now on the live chat, and he told me to order the new injection molded cheapskate carriages, and ROSTOCK MAX BALL-CUP DELTA ARM KIT.

I'll get that topic up, should I post it under troubleshooting ya think?

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Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Postby mhackney » Wed Aug 24, 2016 3:04 pm

No, put it in this The Build Zone.

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Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Postby mhackney » Wed Aug 24, 2016 3:05 pm

I may be able to help at some point but no promises. I'm stretched pretty thin right now. But if you can make a trip to me that saves me some time and I have pretty much every tool, wire, connector, etc that might be required. Oh, and a complete CNC machine shop.

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Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Postby mhackney » Wed Aug 24, 2016 3:06 pm

And the injection molded cheapskates and new ball cup delta arms are THE way to go! Tell JJ I said hello.

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Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Postby sLpFhaWK » Wed Aug 24, 2016 3:07 pm

Oh I would definitely go to you for help, I wouldn't make you travel to me seeing you we're gonna do me a favor =) full CNC shop, nice. Built a DIY kit yourself?

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Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Postby mhackney » Wed Aug 24, 2016 3:12 pm

I've built them from scratch starting with Grizzly or MicroMark machines. A 10x22 lathe, a G0704 mill and an X2 mill and a 2x3 scratch built router. Plus all the printers I have! You can find me on the CNCZone with the mills.

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Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Postby IMBoring25 » Wed Aug 24, 2016 6:46 pm

The new cheapskates and LED PSU were rolling changes. He said he got this from a third party as a partially completed kit, so it's unsurprising it's an older kit.

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Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Postby geneb » Thu Aug 25, 2016 10:07 am

It's a "near-transition" kit. The vent holes are later-model v2 - just prior to the injection molded carriage update. It blows my mind that the original owner glued the belts in. *facepalm*

Realistically, I'd dump the carriages & arms and get the updated carriages and ball & socket arms. You'll be a lot better off in the long run.

The v3 shares no melamine parts with the v2. It's a completely new chassis design.

g.
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Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Postby mhackney » Thu Aug 25, 2016 1:01 pm

Gene, yup he bought the new carriages and arms yesterday. I offered to help assemble at my place - IF and only IF he removes all the paper from the melamine parts!

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Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Postby mhackney » Thu Aug 25, 2016 1:03 pm

Well, after years of faithful and almost daily service, the 24V power supply driving my Onyx gave up the ghost. It turns on, outputs 23V (as I adjusted it) but as soon as the Onyx load switches on, it dies (the LED goes out, no output). Unplug-replug resets it.

I've swapped it out with a new 24V supply and it is doing fine so I've eliminated issues with the SSR, wiring and Onyx.

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sLpFhaWK
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Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Postby sLpFhaWK » Sun Sep 04, 2016 1:48 am

Hey guys, quick update. I built the printer started yesterday and finished tonight. I emailed you Mhackney a few days ago asking if you were free today, but I never got any reply back so I just thought you we're busy which is why I started yesterday.

Took me probably 18ish hours I would say start to finish. Because of the older kit, I did end up ordering the new cheap skates, and arm upgrades now included in the v2 and I must say they are very nice. I yanked the psu and my e3dv6 from my 1st printer I wasn't using much seeing I am planning a rebuild, and I ordered an aluminum mount for it as well from 713maker.com and it came out really well.

The hardest part of the setup process was mattercontrol, that software is terrible. Tomorrow I hope to use simplify 3d as it's my slicer of choice.

Here is a link to a 3 image album just to show her off, I'll post my own thread so I don't spam Mike's anymore. =)

http://imgur.com/a/NRpwz

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Re: Updating to Duet WiFi electronics

Postby aerouta » Sat Nov 19, 2016 1:48 pm

mhackney wrote:I decided to try David Crockers Differential IR Probe on my Rostock. Currently it is fitted with FSRs but I can leave those in place and mount the IR probe and be able to do head-to-head comparisons. I've also converted the electronics to a pre-production Duet WiFi board that I was sent to test. So far it has been really nice, I haven't completely tested the effects of all the micro step options (up to 128 micro stepping). Here are some photos:

original 0.6 Duet before replacement:
Image

the new Duet WiFi waiting in the wings for its turn in the spotlight:
Image

installed using the same mount - the form factor is identical across the Duet .6, 0.8.5 and WiFi versions
Image

and all hooked up ready to run
Image

and here is the IR Probe mount I made for the Trick Laser effector and my modified water cooled E3D V6 hot end with Volcano. The clearances look closer in the photos, I'll put Kapton tape on the backside of the board t be safe but I think I'm ok. The mounting system can slide up and down (slots in the printed red mount) and forward back (a slot in the mounting ear on the red mount) so I can fine adjust the probe position.
Image
Image



Just purchased the Duet Wifi, along with your recommended FSR kit. I was looking through your thread to see if you discussed the FSR some more and I saw that you may have switched to an IP probe? How is this working out for you? Do you prefer an IR probe to FSR? Also any tips regarding the Duet Wifi vs the 0.8.5? Have you played with the micro step options?

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Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Postby mhackney » Sat Nov 19, 2016 1:55 pm

No, I am CONSTANTLY testing new things so of course I've tested an IR Probe. I have it hooked up on my V1 along with FSRs. But I use FSRs to actually calibrate on the V1. I was not able to use the IR probe with my PEI surface. Firstly, you do have to paint the back black - which I did. But unfortunately, the method I use to repair my PEI with CA glue affects the IR reflectivity and leads to erroneous probe results. So I use FSRs to calibrate.

Yes, I use the microstepping. Right now I am at 16 microsteps. I want to do some more experimentation at higher microsteps but I will do that on my MAX Metal with .9° steppers.

Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

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Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Postby mhackney » Sat Nov 19, 2016 2:45 pm

Here are the STL files for the IR Probe mount and Duet (any version) mount.

IR Probe.stl.zip
(9.43 KiB) Downloaded 19 times
DuetMount.zip
(23.71 KiB) Downloaded 21 times

Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints

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Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Postby aerouta » Sat Nov 19, 2016 3:34 pm

Thanks for the info.

Another question... I just purchased the Bondtech QR, couldn't find much information on your installation of the Bondtech extruder on your V1. Do you have this covered somewhere? Did you use a similar installation that you showed on the V3?

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Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Postby mhackney » Sat Nov 19, 2016 3:55 pm

There's this: http://sublimelayers.blogspot.com/2016/ ... g-for.html

And in my v1 max build thread is info including the mount I designed. The V1 mount is different than a V3. I think it will work on a V2 also. The V3 mount I posted on my blog is specific to V3.

Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints

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Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Postby mhackney » Sat Nov 19, 2016 4:11 pm

Oops, this is my V1 thread! I guess I wrote about it here: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=9347&hilit=bondtech&start=25

But let me know if there's something else you are looking for.

Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints

Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

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