I'll try to post some photos tomorrow but Wow, print quality has gone way up with the idler bearings and properly tensioned belts.
Cheers,
Michael
My H-1 Build and Mods
Re: My H-1 Build and Mods
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Warped Table
So, here is the problem I was fighting after installing my hot bed.
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v43 ... 4763-3.jpg[/img]
Even though the hot bed is insulted underneath and sat above the H-1 stock table on 1/8" standoffs, there was enough heat to warp the table. The "backlash" problem I had on my Y was due to this:
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v42 ... 7159-3.jpg[/img]
See how the posts on the left have bent? That is towards the back of the machine. As the machine was printing, that post slowly bent backwards causing a shift in the Y direction. Here is a closeup of that post:
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v44/p23399837-3.jpg[/img]
It got so hot that it actually melted the table in that area.
I've now taken the hot bed and table off and looking at alternative for mounting. I don't think insulation is going to be enough. I think the underside of the hot table needs to be insulated but it also needs to be in the open air to dissipate heat. I think the heat was getting trapped between the hot bed and the H-1 table, causing the warping, etc.
I'll probably mill an aluminum cross bar similar to Dave's that is about 4 1/2" wide and spans the bearing blocks left to right. The table will mount to this on standoffs and/or springs like I've seen on some of the RepRaps.
Michael
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v43 ... 4763-3.jpg[/img]
Even though the hot bed is insulted underneath and sat above the H-1 stock table on 1/8" standoffs, there was enough heat to warp the table. The "backlash" problem I had on my Y was due to this:
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v42 ... 7159-3.jpg[/img]
See how the posts on the left have bent? That is towards the back of the machine. As the machine was printing, that post slowly bent backwards causing a shift in the Y direction. Here is a closeup of that post:
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v44/p23399837-3.jpg[/img]
It got so hot that it actually melted the table in that area.
I've now taken the hot bed and table off and looking at alternative for mounting. I don't think insulation is going to be enough. I think the underside of the hot table needs to be insulated but it also needs to be in the open air to dissipate heat. I think the heat was getting trapped between the hot bed and the H-1 table, causing the warping, etc.
I'll probably mill an aluminum cross bar similar to Dave's that is about 4 1/2" wide and spans the bearing blocks left to right. The table will mount to this on standoffs and/or springs like I've seen on some of the RepRaps.
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
- michaellatif
- Printmaster!
- Posts: 343
- Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 1:34 pm
- Location: RTP, NC
Re: My H-1 Build and Mods
WOW! That thing will never be flat again! 
I used springs and about 3/8"" of air to keep the bed from melting. Also I sandwiched a piece of birch plywood and 1/32 aluminum plate under the heated bed to add as insulation/dissipation.
So far that has worked like a charm, I get the heated bed to 140C without issue.
Edit: Meant 140C
slight difference!

I used springs and about 3/8"" of air to keep the bed from melting. Also I sandwiched a piece of birch plywood and 1/32 aluminum plate under the heated bed to add as insulation/dissipation.
So far that has worked like a charm, I get the heated bed to 140C without issue.
Edit: Meant 140C

Last edited by michaellatif on Mon Apr 09, 2012 6:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mike Latif
H-1 #3
H-1 #3
Re: My H-1 Build and Mods
I had the 1/4" acrylic on the Prusa bed warp bad as well. I wasn't using insulation though. I am now using some steel. It's actually an old table from a HF metal cutting bandsaw. It has some bends in it that helps keep it flat. Perfect size for Prusa, so I think I can get away with no insulation.
Lee
Re: My H-1 Build and Mods
Only 140°F on your hot bed Michael? I run mine at 200°F doe ABS.
I just made the aluminum cross brace to replace the table. It is 7" long and about 3 1/2" wide. It attaches directly to the bearing blocks. The lower part of my hot bed is phenolic and that is mounted to this cross brace on 1/8" standoffs for further isolation. The aluminum table with the nichrome heater is then mounted on the phenolic with 1/8" standoffs to provide a gap between for the nichrome. There is enough room for insulation in there so I am looking at alternatives for that. Another advantage of this configuration is that it will be a lot easier to level the table.
Cheers,
Michael
I just made the aluminum cross brace to replace the table. It is 7" long and about 3 1/2" wide. It attaches directly to the bearing blocks. The lower part of my hot bed is phenolic and that is mounted to this cross brace on 1/8" standoffs for further isolation. The aluminum table with the nichrome heater is then mounted on the phenolic with 1/8" standoffs to provide a gap between for the nichrome. There is enough room for insulation in there so I am looking at alternatives for that. Another advantage of this configuration is that it will be a lot easier to level the table.
Cheers,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
An update
Ok, I made the new table mount. This is the cross brace that the table will mount to. The screw sort of in the middle is the mount for the Y belt tensioner as you'll see below.
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v40 ... 7694-3.jpg[/img]
Here is the underside. The belt mount is that screw I mentioned in the previous photo, with a 1/4" standoff and a nut.
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41 ... 1328-3.jpg[/img]
And here is how the belt and tensioner are mounted to the post.
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39 ... 2658-3.jpg[/img]
I've mounted the table and it is printing now. Seems to be working fine.
Cheers,
Michael
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v40 ... 7694-3.jpg[/img]
Here is the underside. The belt mount is that screw I mentioned in the previous photo, with a 1/4" standoff and a nut.
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41 ... 1328-3.jpg[/img]
And here is how the belt and tensioner are mounted to the post.
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v39 ... 2658-3.jpg[/img]
I've mounted the table and it is printing now. Seems to be working fine.
Cheers,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
- michaellatif
- Printmaster!
- Posts: 343
- Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 1:34 pm
- Location: RTP, NC
Re: My H-1 Build and Mods
Yeah, typo on my part, I run my heated bed at 80C - 100C, I have run it up to 140C without issue.mhackney wrote:Only 140°F on your hot bed Michael? I run mine at 200°F doe ABS.
I just made the aluminum cross brace to replace the table. It is 7" long and about 3 1/2" wide. It attaches directly to the bearing blocks. The lower part of my hot bed is phenolic and that is mounted to this cross brace on 1/8" standoffs for further isolation. The aluminum table with the nichrome heater is then mounted on the phenolic with 1/8" standoffs to provide a gap between for the nichrome. There is enough room for insulation in there so I am looking at alternatives for that. Another advantage of this configuration is that it will be a lot easier to level the table.
Cheers,
Michael
Mike Latif
H-1 #3
H-1 #3