Another rostock max build
ideas how to mount these switches..
I've been brainstorming on how to mount these http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 320#p11149 hall effect switches.
I have some so so ideas but wanted to see how you guys would do it. Maybe help me come up with a better solution.
I have some so so ideas but wanted to see how you guys would do it. Maybe help me come up with a better solution.
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: Another rostock max build
What have you come up with so far? Maybe we can embellish it.
- dan
- dan
Re: Another rostock max build
Sensors look like they're panel mount, so I'd print a panel for it to mount at the top of the towers. Secure panel to side of tower with t-slot nut and bolt, since cheapskates don't go all the way up the tower it shouldn't hit. Then print a magnet mount that takes a 6-32 screw so it can screw in stock hole where the end stop screw goes.
Re: Another rostock max build
ApacheXMD wrote:Sensors look like they're panel mount, so I'd print a panel for it to mount at the top of the towers. Secure panel to side of tower with t-slot nut and bolt, since cheapskates don't go all the way up the tower it shouldn't hit. Then print a magnet mount that takes a 6-32 screw so it can screw in stock hole where the end stop screw goes.
hmm working out the the fit..but i came with up something that mounts it to the outside of the frame. while keeping the stock switch in place for now.... for testing purposes.
Last edited by cambo3d on Tue May 28, 2013 4:50 pm, edited 5 times in total.
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
more extruder photos
some eye candy. continued from here. http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 360#p12644
got the heat sink, fans and some 3mm filament in today. Looking good to so far, I should be getting the 3m epoxy dp420 adhesive for the mag joints also and I'll be almost ready for test run
got the heat sink, fans and some 3mm filament in today. Looking good to so far, I should be getting the 3m epoxy dp420 adhesive for the mag joints also and I'll be almost ready for test run
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
- Eaglezsoar
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Re: Another rostock max build
Do you mind giving your source for the heat sinks you show on the motors?
“ Do Not Regret Growing Older. It is a Privilege Denied to Many. ”
Re: Another rostock max build
i use rc motor heatsinks 540/550 size. bought from ebay but you can get them at most hobby stores.Eaglezsoar wrote:Do you mind giving your source for the heat sinks you show on the motors?
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
ed3 arrives
all metal hotend goodness
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: Another rostock max build
Awesome. Can't wait till my E3D gets here.
aluminum ED3 mount and mag joint mount progress
using the kossel mount for jhead from thingiverse. milled out of aluminum.
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: Another rostock max build
Wow that kossel mount looks great. Put it all together already!
Re: Another rostock max build
i would but i dont have the correct size tap for the bowden fitting yet. its on order though.ApacheXMD wrote:Wow that kossel mount looks great. Put it all together already!
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: Another rostock max build
Maybe someone else has posted this already, but when tapping the e3d hotend for the quickfit connectors, I'm assuming youd have to drill the top to match the tap, right? Then would a bottoming tap be required or would a standard tapered tap be ok?
Re: Another rostock max build
im not tapping my ed3, i'm tapping my aluminum mount for the bowden adapter, the ed3 sits inside my aluminum mount no tapping necessary. I actually located a the correct tap. didn't have to order it after all.
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: Another rostock max build
But to answer the other method. Yes, it must meet a flat bottom in the barrel. And the barrel must be totally perfectly free of any edges or ledges. Cambo3d's solution is not only better but far easier to pull of perfectly and not affect your hotend performance at all.
"Now you see why evil will always triumph! Because good is dumb." - Spaceballs
Re: Another rostock max build
could you show the whole works as well, I'd be interested in your slot mounting idea and the way you retain everything.
"Now you see why evil will always triumph! Because good is dumb." - Spaceballs
- Eaglezsoar
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Re: Another rostock max build
Great work on the aluminum! If you intend to sell the Kossel in aluminum could you put it in your Seeme's list.
“ Do Not Regret Growing Older. It is a Privilege Denied to Many. ”
Re: Another rostock max build
Flateric wrote:could you show the whole works as well, I'd be interested in your slot mounting idea and the way you retain everything.
its the standard jhead type of mount, nothing new. the jhead/ed3 fits into the circular recessed hole and then the slot mount secures the jhead/ed3 in place to keep it from coming out.
then the whole assembly is attaches to the rostock platform through the 3 holes
Last edited by cambo3d on Fri May 31, 2013 12:06 am, edited 2 times in total.
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: Another rostock max build
Thanks Carl. There was a lot of trial and error before I got the final pieces cut correctly on my cnc router and there's still a little tweaking to do for better fit. I think its gonna work the way it is for now.Eaglezsoar wrote:Great work on the aluminum! If you intend to sell the Kossel in aluminum could you put it in your Seeme's list.
I didn't have plans to sell em, its not really my design but if anyone wants a mount. I'll make it. I actually think it will be good for the ed3, aluminum will act as a heat sink also to help take away the heat off the parts that don't need to be heated.
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
- Eaglezsoar
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Re: Another rostock max build
See your PMcambo3d wrote:Thanks Carl. There was a lot of trial and error before I got the final pieces cut correctly on my cnc router and there's still a little tweaking to do for better fit. I think its gonna work the way it is for now.Eaglezsoar wrote:Great work on the aluminum! If you intend to sell the Kossel in aluminum could you put it in your Seeme's list.
I didn't have plans to sell em, its not really my design but if anyone wants a mount. I'll make it. I actually think it will be good for the ed3, aluminum will act as a heat sink also to help take away the heat off the parts that don't need to be heated.
“ Do Not Regret Growing Older. It is a Privilege Denied to Many. ”
ED3 hotend tests
Using stock seemecnc thermistor only because I couldn't get the thermistor that came with it to stay in the hole reliably. Also, the hole for the heating cartridge was not a very good fit. I had to drill it out so it would fit properly. Also be careful when tightening down the stainless steel parts, I twisted mine on accident. luckily i bought two.
The temperature readings were only about 3 degrees off from the stock hot end setup. I wanted to see how this thing would perform at higher temps so up'ed the maxtemp value to 300c and only got calibrated measured reading of 293c on my thermocouple temp probe. Even though rephost says 299c. The temperature chart seemed to fluctuate more starting at 260C and up. So i'm guessing i need to rerun the pid autotune. Maybe that will smooth it out and get my reading more accurate?? will do when the temps get back to room temp.
Included some photos of the new hot end mounted. At 293c this thing barely gets warm, unlike the stock setup which at 220, i could not comfortably touch the bowden adapter without getting burned. Although, I think I would prefer a higher cfm rated fan. Already on the hunt for one.
temperature probe is inserted all the down inside the tip of the ED3 Nozzle for calibration purposes. Also this turn out to be a little trouble seems as though my thermocouple is not rated for 300c. even though the package says otherwise. I managed to melt the insulation of the sensor somewhat. Hopefully there's not a lot of plastic stuck in there to affect my prints or extrusion. maybe the bits will come out hopefully after a couple of extrusion cycles. Decided to wrap my hotend up this time with ceramic insulation and kapton tape to keep the radiate heat of the printed parts. and to help stablize temp when part cooling fans running. random shot of it all mounted up.
The temperature readings were only about 3 degrees off from the stock hot end setup. I wanted to see how this thing would perform at higher temps so up'ed the maxtemp value to 300c and only got calibrated measured reading of 293c on my thermocouple temp probe. Even though rephost says 299c. The temperature chart seemed to fluctuate more starting at 260C and up. So i'm guessing i need to rerun the pid autotune. Maybe that will smooth it out and get my reading more accurate?? will do when the temps get back to room temp.
Included some photos of the new hot end mounted. At 293c this thing barely gets warm, unlike the stock setup which at 220, i could not comfortably touch the bowden adapter without getting burned. Although, I think I would prefer a higher cfm rated fan. Already on the hunt for one.
temperature probe is inserted all the down inside the tip of the ED3 Nozzle for calibration purposes. Also this turn out to be a little trouble seems as though my thermocouple is not rated for 300c. even though the package says otherwise. I managed to melt the insulation of the sensor somewhat. Hopefully there's not a lot of plastic stuck in there to affect my prints or extrusion. maybe the bits will come out hopefully after a couple of extrusion cycles. Decided to wrap my hotend up this time with ceramic insulation and kapton tape to keep the radiate heat of the printed parts. and to help stablize temp when part cooling fans running. random shot of it all mounted up.
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Migrating to TL-1 Frame
Update on mods Ive been working on, migrated them over to the TL-1 frame from Tricklaser.com
My turn adjustable buckle tensioner; proved to be excellent functional mod, must have for the rostock max.
Tricklaser carbon fiber arms; excellent upgrade to improve accuracy and ease of installation. no sanding required.
ED3 all metal hot end; capable of 400c plus. wider range of printing material choices.
Mic 6 build surface; flat build surface ,even heat distribution and non flexing during heating cycles. downside, it takes longer to heat up this massive piece of metal with the onyx. around 10-15min but it holds temperature fairly well.
extended z height; not necessarily for larger printing area. I extended the length to compensate for other mods taking up build space.
hall effect limit switches for more consistent z height repeatability.
My turn adjustable buckle tensioner; proved to be excellent functional mod, must have for the rostock max.
Tricklaser carbon fiber arms; excellent upgrade to improve accuracy and ease of installation. no sanding required.
ED3 all metal hot end; capable of 400c plus. wider range of printing material choices.
Mic 6 build surface; flat build surface ,even heat distribution and non flexing during heating cycles. downside, it takes longer to heat up this massive piece of metal with the onyx. around 10-15min but it holds temperature fairly well.
extended z height; not necessarily for larger printing area. I extended the length to compensate for other mods taking up build space.
hall effect limit switches for more consistent z height repeatability.
Last edited by cambo3d on Tue Jun 04, 2013 6:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
- Eaglezsoar
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Re: Another rostock max build
Very well done and I am jealous.
Now we need to see what kind of prints you can do with that miracle of technology.
It looks like you have 4 points of attachment on the Mic6 heat bed, is it adjustable, like on springs?
That's one big chunk of metal!
Please let us know how she prints with some pictures. Great job!

Now we need to see what kind of prints you can do with that miracle of technology.
It looks like you have 4 points of attachment on the Mic6 heat bed, is it adjustable, like on springs?
That's one big chunk of metal!
Please let us know how she prints with some pictures. Great job!
“ Do Not Regret Growing Older. It is a Privilege Denied to Many. ”
my hall affect switch mounting solution
so after much thought and testing this was my final solution. Decided to mount the switch sideways so there would be no chance that the carriage would come in contact with the switch causing damage.
Last edited by cambo3d on Tue Jun 04, 2013 6:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: Another rostock max build
Looks great. Still easily adjustable with a wrench at the magnet. How's repeatibilty so far?