Another rostock max build

cambo3d · Post by **cambo3d** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 2:10 pm

installed today and doing a test print, with the cal cube. Working great so far.

aerouta · Post by **aerouta** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 2:57 pm

How come you ordered from China instead of going with the trick laser arms? Do you have more pictures of the print or the finished product?

cambo3d · Post by **cambo3d** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 3:10 pm

aerouta wrote:How come you ordered from China instead of going with the trick laser arms? Do you have more pictures of the print or the finished product?

I had both sets coming to try but so far these china made version is working great, the print is still cookin, will post another update when done.

update: probably my best cal cube so far. still need to do some more tweaking to my flow rate. to the get the towers in between the windows to line up a lil better. Is that what what I need to adjust to fix that?

aerouta · Post by **aerouta** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 5:17 pm

looks very good

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 6:03 pm

Could you provide a link to the Chinese Ebay seller who sold you those arms?

cambo3d · Post by **cambo3d** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 6:24 pm

Eaglezsoar wrote:Could you provide a link to the Chinese Ebay seller who sold you those arms?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reprap-Rostock- ... 4ac2df4053

just remember to ask for 269mm arms

rs50pilot · Post by **rs50pilot** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 2:04 am

Are these arms worth the coin?

cambo3d · Post by **cambo3d** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 2:35 am

rs50pilot wrote:Are these arms worth the coin?

was worth it to me, didn't have to spend hours sanding and it improved my print quality also

Flateric · Post by **Flateric** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 2:45 am

How long did it take you to get yours from this guy because I actually ordered before you. Have not gotten them.

Seller is tellig me to wait up to 8 to 12 weeks? Does not sound right somehow.

I have concerns about this ebay seller.

cambo3d · Post by **cambo3d** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 2:47 am

Flateric wrote:How long did it take you to get yours from this guy because I actually ordered before you. Have not gotten them.

Seller is tellig me to wait up to 8 to 12 weeks? Does not sound right somehow.

I have concerns about this ebay seller.

it depends, it can take up to 12 weeks depends on how fast he makes them and of course all the shipping hoops being international. I was surprised i got mine so fast. It only took a week for it to get to me

Post by **PartDaddy** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 6:55 am

The SeeMeCNC ARMS are now CNC machined to fit perfect - NO SANDING. We've been shipping kits this way for over a week now.

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 9:08 am

cambo3d wrote:leds mounted using thermal adhesive epoxy, on my custom cut aluminum heat sink http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =260#p9718
CIMG1915.JPG

CIMG1917.JPG
50ohm pot wired along with 10ohm fixed resister, and on/off switch

how it looks on the platform all wired up. If I make another, it will be made of pcb material so the wiring and led will be integral part of mount.

powered up turned all the way down dim

powered up turned all the way up bright

IF ANYONE WANTS AN LED MOUNT LIKE THE ONE I MADE JUST SEND ME A PM, I DONT HAVE ANY STOCK TO MAKE THEM AT THE MOMENT BUT I'LL BE MORE THEN HAPPY TO GET SOME.

EDIT: I'M NOTICING A LOT OF FLICKERING WHEN THE RAMBO IS DOING ITS PID ROUTINE, SO I ORDERED A BETTER VOLTAGE AND CURRENT REGULATOR TO ELIMINATE THIS PROBLEM.

I am trying to learn so I have a question, what would happen if you disabled PID?
If you wanted to keep PID where would you place the voltage regulator, on the output of the power supply or the input to the LEDs?

cambo3d · Post by **cambo3d** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 10:13 am

PartDaddy wrote:The SeeMeCNC ARMS are now CNC machined to fit perfect - NO SANDING. We've been shipping kits this way for over a week now.

i will have to order a set now great news.

cambo3d · Post by **cambo3d** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 10:16 am

[quote= I am trying to learn so I have a question, what would happen if you disabled PID?
If you wanted to keep PID where would you place the voltage regulator, on the output of the power supply or the input to the LEDs?[/quote]

its small you just place it inline with the power going to the leds, if you disabled pid it wouldn't flicker it just would go dim and bright when the board starts its heating routine.

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 10:36 am

Now I am beginning to understand, you are taking the power for the LEDs from the power connection to the Hot End. As the current to the Hot End varies, the LEDs also receive varying
current thus the dimming. On the same note, you are running your Onyx from 24 volts - the output from the Rambo heatbed connector is the input to an SSR that controls the 24 volts to
the Onyx. In the case of the Onyx, would you want to disable Pid for the HotBed so the input to the SSR is a more stable on or off?

cambo3d · Post by **cambo3d** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 10:42 am

yes thats it, the problem is that 12v power comes from the same power source that hot end uses. so it flickers because the power can't maintain constant voltage/current. If you put it on a separate power source it wouldn't be an issue but then i'd have 3 power sources..

pid gives you more stability in the heating cycle then just regular on off control. SSR's are used for heating circuits quite often with pid controllers, there no problems doing this.

aerouta · Post by **aerouta** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 11:47 am

PartDaddy wrote:The SeeMeCNC ARMS are now CNC machined to fit perfect - NO SANDING. We've been shipping kits this way for over a week now.

Do you have a linlk to these arms, I only see the molded ones on your site but I may be missing them?

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Fri Apr 19, 2013 9:24 am

cambo3d wrote:
Flateric wrote:How long did it take you to get yours from this guy because I actually ordered before you. Have not gotten them.

Seller is tellig me to wait up to 8 to 12 weeks? Does not sound right somehow.

I have concerns about this ebay seller.

it depends, it can take up to 12 weeks depends on how fast he makes them and of course all the shipping hoops being international. I was surprised i got mine so fast. It only took a week for it to get to me

Did you ever get the arms from Trick Laser?
Mine has been on order for over a week and has not shipped as far as I know.

cambo3d · Post by **cambo3d** » Fri Apr 19, 2013 9:31 am

they supposedly shipped Tues or wed but i haven't received any shipping notice from them.

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Tue Apr 23, 2013 1:04 am

Do you have a picture of those metal arms where they attach to the cheapskates? I would like to see how they
are attached at that end.

cambo3d · Post by **cambo3d** » Tue Apr 23, 2013 3:43 am

Eaglezsoar wrote:Do you have a picture of those metal arms where they attach to the cheapskates? I would like to see how they
are attached at that end.

I used the two locknuts to center the arms and hold them in place

kinggorilla · Post by **kinggorilla** » Wed Apr 24, 2013 6:58 am

I didn't see if you had decided on a belt tensioning solution or not, I'm actually in the middle of my build and have been printing up some custom pieces for it, including a tensioning system.

[img]http://www.darcjedi.com/stuff/rostock/r ... ner_01.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.darcjedi.com/stuff/rostock/r ... ner_02.jpg[/img]

basically you set the block above the idler bearing, and replace the idler bearing screw with one long enough to attach the bracket. Then you can just use the fingerwheel to pull the belt tight and then tighten down the locknut. If anyone is interested I can make the objs or stl files available.

foshon · Post by **foshon** » Wed Apr 24, 2013 8:46 am

kinggorilla wrote:I didn't see if you had decided on a belt tensioning solution or not, I'm actually in the middle of my build and have been printing up some custom pieces for it, including a tensioning system.

[img]http://www.darcjedi.com/stuff/rostock/r ... ner_01.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.darcjedi.com/stuff/rostock/r ... ner_02.jpg[/img]

basically you set the block above the idler bearing, and replace the idler bearing screw with one long enough to attach the bracket. Then you can just use the fingerwheel to pull the belt tight and then tighten down the locknut. If anyone is interested I can make the objs or stl files available.

I like this far better then some others. I think it would much more difficult to over tighten the belts with this. Please do post it.

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:51 am

This would make a nice addition to Thingiverse and I think the STL files should be posted there also.

cambo3d · Post by **cambo3d** » Wed Apr 24, 2013 11:02 am

foshon wrote:
kinggorilla wrote:I didn't see if you had decided on a belt tensioning solution or not, I'm actually in the middle of my build and have been printing up some custom pieces for it, including a tensioning system.

[img]http://www.darcjedi.com/stuff/rostock/r ... ner_01.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.darcjedi.com/stuff/rostock/r ... ner_02.jpg[/img]

basically you set the block above the idler bearing, and replace the idler bearing screw with one long enough to attach the bracket. Then you can just use the fingerwheel to pull the belt tight and then tighten down the locknut. If anyone is interested I can make the objs or stl files available.

I like this far better then some others. I think it would much more difficult to over tighten the belts with this. Please do post it.

great idea for tensioning tool

Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Another rostock max build

new arms work geat so far

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