Another rostock max build

[Flateric]

new hotend that will get retrofitted into my max. I've been following the development of metal hotends and this one is now available for purchase. One downside depending on how you look at it, is that it uses 3mm filament at the moment. 1.75mm will be available at a later date.

hot end can print Nylon, Polycarbonate, PLA, ABS, LayWood, PVA, HDPE and just about any type of filament there is currently available on the market. no PTFE or plastic is used in the hot end and it is safe up to 400C. currently available at http://trinitylabs.com/products/trinity ... emp-hotend

all metal hot end.jpg

I bought one of the trinty hotends as well, Have you used yours yet?

Curious how it actually runs.

[cambo3d]

it hasn't arrived yet, but will post a report once it's all set up. I bought the full kit and not bare hotend, they were still waiting on parts to complete the kit.

there's a video of it on youtube, If i can find it i'll post the link

here's one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxsQ0dmW2N0 it seems to stay cool enough that he can print pla with no fan. unlike peek hot ends that need a fan.

[Flateric]

My favorite feature of it is that it can't really be melted, since it has zero plastic in it anywhere.

[cambo3d]

My favorite feature of it is that it can't really be melted, since it has zero plastic in it anywhere.

yeah, i can't wait to try it out! hopefully, there isn't any fit issues with the rostock. I have another printer that is jhead based, so it should just be a direct swap, if I can't make it work for the rostock.

[cambo3d]

leds mounted using thermal adhesive epoxy, on my custom cut aluminum heat sink http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =260#p9718

50ohm pot wired along with 10ohm fixed resister, and on/off switch

how it looks on the platform all wired up. If I make another, it will be made of pcb material so the wiring and led will be integral part of mount.

powered up turned all the way down dim

powered up turned all the way up bright

IF ANYONE WANTS AN LED MOUNT LIKE THE ONE I MADE JUST SEND ME A PM, I DONT HAVE ANY STOCK TO MAKE THEM AT THE MOMENT BUT I'LL BE MORE THEN HAPPY TO GET SOME.

EDIT: I'M NOTICING A LOT OF FLICKERING WHEN THE RAMBO IS DOING ITS PID ROUTINE, SO I ORDERED A BETTER VOLTAGE AND CURRENT REGULATOR TO ELIMINATE THIS PROBLEM.
problem fixed, using this regulator below. no more flickering.

current and voltage regulator from ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221200620645?ss ... 1497.l2649
simple setup, install and turn your led pot all the way bright, then adjust the voltage pot on the regulator till the flickering goes away. There's also a current adjustment if you need it.

[Eaglezsoar]

Do you remember what size screw you used to mount the ring?

[cambo3d]

it uses the stock screws that hold the hot end to the platform, no extra screws needed

[cambo3d]

can't wait to try these out, so far I see no play in the ball ends and best of all no sanding required. http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =260#p9878

i'm using 3mm x30mm Length screws and 3mm lock nuts to attach them onto the rostock platform

[bplemmons]

I'm still waiting on my 50 ohm pot but I printed the mount and soldered in the leds.
Your's are really bright. I like that a lot!

Here is a picture of step one for me...

I included pictures of the new mounts I printed for the LCD screen. Cracked the wood ones.
These are ABS!

Bill

[cambo3d]

i dont' know why didn't think of reprinting my angle mount for the lcd.. i'm gonna do that now. i broke mine awhile ago. didn't dawn on me to print a replacement...

[cambo3d]

installed today and doing a test print, with the cal cube. Working great so far.

[aerouta]

How come you ordered from China instead of going with the trick laser arms? Do you have more pictures of the print or the finished product?

[cambo3d]

How come you ordered from China instead of going with the trick laser arms? Do you have more pictures of the print or the finished product?

I had both sets coming to try but so far these china made version is working great, the print is still cookin, will post another update when done.

update: probably my best cal cube so far. still need to do some more tweaking to my flow rate. to the get the towers in between the windows to line up a lil better. Is that what what I need to adjust to fix that?

[aerouta]

looks very good

[Eaglezsoar]

Could you provide a link to the Chinese Ebay seller who sold you those arms?

[cambo3d]

Could you provide a link to the Chinese Ebay seller who sold you those arms?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reprap-Rostock- ... 4ac2df4053

just remember to ask for 269mm arms

[rs50pilot]

Are these arms worth the coin?

[cambo3d]

Are these arms worth the coin?

was worth it to me, didn't have to spend hours sanding and it improved my print quality also

[Flateric]

How long did it take you to get yours from this guy because I actually ordered before you. Have not gotten them.

Seller is tellig me to wait up to 8 to 12 weeks? Does not sound right somehow.

I have concerns about this ebay seller.

[cambo3d]

How long did it take you to get yours from this guy because I actually ordered before you. Have not gotten them.

Seller is tellig me to wait up to 8 to 12 weeks? Does not sound right somehow.

I have concerns about this ebay seller.

it depends, it can take up to 12 weeks depends on how fast he makes them and of course all the shipping hoops being international. I was surprised i got mine so fast. It only took a week for it to get to me

[PartDaddy]

The SeeMeCNC ARMS are now CNC machined to fit perfect - NO SANDING. We've been shipping kits this way for over a week now.

[Eaglezsoar]

leds mounted using thermal adhesive epoxy, on my custom cut aluminum heat sink http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =260#p9718

CIMG1915.JPG

CIMG1917.JPG

50ohm pot wired along with 10ohm fixed resister, and on/off switch

how it looks on the platform all wired up. If I make another, it will be made of pcb material so the wiring and led will be integral part of mount.

powered up turned all the way down dim

powered up turned all the way up bright

IF ANYONE WANTS AN LED MOUNT LIKE THE ONE I MADE JUST SEND ME A PM, I DONT HAVE ANY STOCK TO MAKE THEM AT THE MOMENT BUT I'LL BE MORE THEN HAPPY TO GET SOME.

EDIT: I'M NOTICING A LOT OF FLICKERING WHEN THE RAMBO IS DOING ITS PID ROUTINE, SO I ORDERED A BETTER VOLTAGE AND CURRENT REGULATOR TO ELIMINATE THIS PROBLEM.

I am trying to learn so I have a question, what would happen if you disabled PID?
If you wanted to keep PID where would you place the voltage regulator, on the output of the power supply or the input to the LEDs?

[cambo3d]

The SeeMeCNC ARMS are now CNC machined to fit perfect - NO SANDING. We've been shipping kits this way for over a week now.

i will have to order a set now great news.

[cambo3d]

[quote= I am trying to learn so I have a question, what would happen if you disabled PID?
If you wanted to keep PID where would you place the voltage regulator, on the output of the power supply or the input to the LEDs?[/quote]


its small you just place it inline with the power going to the leds, if you disabled pid it wouldn't flicker it just would go dim and bright when the board starts its heating routine.

[Eaglezsoar]

Now I am beginning to understand, you are taking the power for the LEDs from the power connection to the Hot End. As the current to the Hot End varies, the LEDs also receive varying
current thus the dimming. On the same note, you are running your Onyx from 24 volts - the output from the Rambo heatbed connector is the input to an SSR that controls the 24 volts to
the Onyx. In the case of the Onyx, would you want to disable Pid for the HotBed so the input to the SSR is a more stable on or off?