Thingiverse Vica Sculture. So nice I had to Post!

[elqisqeyano]

This sculpture can be found on Thingiverse under Vica Sculpture. It's such a nice print I had to post it here. Sliced with Slic3r at .20 Layer height, .25 first layer, .10 % infill, 45% speed, Skirt 2 loops 8mm from object 20mm skirt height, 5mm brim, no support, 2 raft layers for adhesion, Filament at 1.80mm diameter, 230 C Bed at 110 C, .40 nozzle diameter, Retraction at 5mm, lift z 1.5, retract speed 35%, min travel 2.5. ABS plastic filament.

[elqisqeyano]

I will post final pick when done. My hot end is the E3D All Metal Hot End with cooling fan on 100% all the time. I have been trying these kinds of print in the past but could not get the Rostock to do it till I found I had forgot to tighten up my Cams to the Rail, I was surprised I got prints at all. When I tightened these Cams finally, I started getting really good prints, this being one of my best.

[elqisqeyano]

Here are more progress pics...

[elqisqeyano]

Here it is finished after some minor sanding...

[Eaglezsoar]

Very nice! And some say it can't be done without a direct drive extruder. I think you prove that it can be done.
I you don't mind answering a couple of questions....Which Thingiverse item did you use for the mount of the E3D and
what length of spacers did you use? Thanks, great job. Remember to tighten those cams!

[elqisqeyano]

Very nice! And some say it can't be done without a direct drive extruder. I think you prove that it can be done.
I you don't mind answering a couple of questions....Which Thingiverse item did you use for the mount of the E3D and
what length of spacers did you use? Thanks, great job. Remember to tighten those cams!

Here is the file, made by Richrap... The only reason it got a bit smoochie towards the top is because I think I had too much smooch and the slim tower arms move as it was printing, I had to hold on to them until they finally bridged at the top.

I used 1 1" aluminum spacer and 1 1/2 " aluminum spacer from home depot for a total of 1 1/2 " spacing. You need 3" screws with that adapter, use lock washers with nylon lock nuts too. From the tip of my nozzle and the bottom of the head platform it's 14mm, giving me a total Z height of 376.3175. The E3D all metal hot end, if installed properly, will extend your Z height significantly. Plus the prints from this all metal hot end are stunning. Must keep fan on all time, otherwise filament gets clogged.

Yeah, Cam tightening was the thing I missed that was ruining all my prints. You don't know what it took for me to figure that one out.

[Flateric]

Are you printing that in nylon!?

[elqisqeyano]

Are you printing that in nylon!?

This was natural ABS.

[Eaglezsoar]

Thanks for the info on the spacers and which mount you used. I am always amazed what can be printed by the Rostock Max.
I've liked that particular print because it looks like it would be impossible to do. I've read some of your previous posts where
you were having problems. I'm glad you figured out what was causing them.

[Eaglezsoar]

I downloaded the file and I have one more question. If it appears stupid don't laugh too hard.
Those two bolts sticking out the back, I assume that these are what holds the hotend? Do those
holes have to be tapped? See, I told you it was stupid but my momma always taught me to ask if
you're not sure about something.

[elqisqeyano]

Thanks for the info on the spacers and which mount you used. I am always amazed what can be printed by the Rostock Max.
I've liked that particular print because it looks like it would be impossible to do. I've read some of your previous posts where
you were having problems. I'm glad you figured out what was causing them.

Boy was it a challenge for me, but I'm the type who is very persistent. I hung in there and with the help of you guys here, I am now able to print masterpieces. Now that I managed to install Repetier Firmware, the difference is like night and day. A lot quieter and smoother operation. I don't have any kind of experience with 3D printers nor software, nor GCode, but you guys on here helped gain the little bit of knowledge required to run this baby at it's best performance.

Again, Thanks to all.
P.S I did this print still using Marlin Firmware, imagine how much better it would be now with Repetier Firmware. I recommend all who own Rostock Max to switch to Repetier Firmware, highly recommend it!

[elqisqeyano]

I downloaded the file and I have one more question. If it appears stupid don't laugh too hard.
Those two bolts sticking out the back, I assume that these are what holds the hotend? Do those
holes have to be tapped? See, I told you it was stupid but my momma always taught me to ask if
you're not sure about something.

Not a stupid question at all. They don't need to be tapped. I just printed the part, cleaned it out and inserted those screws in they tap themselves straight in. The hole will be printed out just fine. If you want to tap you can, those 2 holes on the side are what holds the J-Style hot ends in place. If you tap, do not tap all the way through, just enough so screws don't push so much plastic onto the hot end.

[elqisqeyano]

I downloaded the file and I have one more question. If it appears stupid don't laugh too hard.
Those two bolts sticking out the back, I assume that these are what holds the hotend? Do those
holes have to be tapped? See, I told you it was stupid but my momma always taught me to ask if
you're not sure about something.

Onyx Bed heats up much quicker using Repetier Firmware. To reach 100 C with Marlin it took about 15 minutes, now with Repetier Firmware it takes about 3 minutes.

[dbarrans]

How can that be? Can anyone explain how this can happen with no change to the hardware? I haven't seen any noticeable difference after switching a few weeks ago.

- dan

[cambo3d]

there isn't much notable difference in my testing mine either. but there is an improvement in bed temp stability.

[Eaglezsoar]

This is just a guess but perhaps Marlin does not send heater on pulses as quickly as repetier does.
In other words, Marlin turns on the bed then reads the temp and while reading it turns off the bed
whereas repetier keeps the bed on until it reaches set temperature. This is only a guess on my part
but it is the only thing I can think of that would make a difference like that. Perhaps Polygonhell could
help us figure out how that could happen.

[elqisqeyano]

How can that be? Can anyone explain how this can happen with no change to the hardware? I haven't seen any noticeable difference after switching a few weeks ago.

- dan

Maybe the Marlin settings were off, I never did mess with them as I had no idea what I would have been doing. But I do notice with Repetier firmware right out of the box settings bed reaches 100 C in 2 to 4 minutes. Where Marlin took about 15 minutes to reach 100 C.

[elqisqeyano]

I see an overall temp stability and speed on both the hot end and bed using Repetier firmware. I am not just trolling here, I have nothing to do with any of these companies, Neither Seemecnc. I'm just your average Joe who purchased and built the Rostock with absolutely no knowledge into what I was getting into. I am computer, electronics and mechanically inclined and I think this and the guys here on the forum, helped in the building and calibrating of this machine. A lot of persistence too. I love a challenge.

[dbarrans]

If there's a setting that I can change in the firmware to improve this, I'd much rather do that than buy a 24 v power supply for the Onyx.

- dan

[cambo3d]

If there's a setting that I can change in the firmware to improve this, I'd much rather do that than buy a 24 v power supply for the Onyx.

- dan

you dont need to go to 24v, 15-24v will suffice.

[dbarrans]

I've got my 12v supply cranked up to 15v. It takes 14 minutes to get the Onyx up to 70 degrees C with a 1/8" aluminum plate and borosilicate glass on top. It doesn't suffice.

- dan

[cambo3d]

what size cable are you running to your heatbed? how do you have it wired? pm me if you like so we dont hijack this thread.

there isn't any setting in firmware that will make the onyx heat any faster.

[elqisqeyano]

I've got my 12v supply cranked up to 15v. It takes 14 minutes to get the Onyx up to 70 degrees C with a 1/8" aluminum plate and borosilicate glass on top. It doesn't suffice.

- dan

It takes a long time to have to heat up an aluminum plate and a borosilicate glass. You have to understand that the Onyx board, slow as it is, has to now heat up to 70 C it self, the aluminum plate and the boro glass. It would take long with so many heat absorbing materials. Try the boro alone with max hold hair spray.