Shizuma wrote:Putting together my Rostock MAX today and even more frustrating there is that is says to use those 4 1/2" 4-40 socket head screws, the assembly manual also says to use those same 1/2" 4-40 socket head screws, that 6 clamps x 2 screws = 12 screws, + 4 for the RAMBo = 16, there are only 12 of those screws included in the kit per the packing list, which really sucks cause i'm stuck in the house since there is a blizzard going on here right now and now I stuck on the install because the required screws weren't in the kit :/
I found this was true with many screws after the main frame assembly but I have a ton of leftover 6-32 x1" screws and #4 washers. Ace Hardware has received a few trips to pick up miscellaneous stuff. You may want to get 10-20 additional #6 washers(if you use them everywhere like I did), I ran out of those early too.
geneb: Found a little thing for new calibration on page #217. You used the same Advanced Settings menu image for the Z-Height Option image.
Yeah, I ended up short on #6 washers and long on #4s, 6-32 1" screws, and a few other things. My rambo kit came with a few extra wire connectors I was able to make use of.
I'm waiting on some wire connectors to finalize all of my effector wiring setup, but the guide ended up working out fairly well for me.
A few things I noticed, some relevant for the guide, some not:
1) How you solder the big wires onto the Onyx matters, as well as their flexibility. Too stiff, and you'll have a hard time bending it to get around the heatshield. I nearly broke out a coping saw to make a larger notch to relieve stress on the wires.
2) The 7/64 drill bit worked fine for me mounting the LCD w/o splitting the melamine.
3) Not a manual matter, but I don't like the shortness of the Onyx bed screws - I feel like they're only engaging the T-nut by a couple threads. I need to find a specialty store around me to find some longer 4-40 flat head screws, though. 1" seems to be the longest commonly available at HD.
4) I didn't use the wiring slot on the bed to feed the Onyx wires through. It's much easier to put an XT60 connector on the bed wiring before you install the Onyx, and the wiring slot is not wide enough, plus I don't like how tight you need to s-curve the wire through it. I used the center hole instead.
5) For the belt tensioners, if you're not going to go with one of the alternate printed parts, I'd recommend using some fender washers instead of regular washers to spread the load out around the slot.
6) Tell folks to inspect their 1/8" shafts for the U-joints. I had one of them which had a couple of burrs on it (like it had been grabbed by vise-grips) preventing free rotation of the u-joint, so I had to have the seemecnc gang replace one of them - no big deal, just had to wait a couple days - nice that UPS Ground from them takes 1 day usually!
7) I needed to ream the holes in the U-joints a little bit to get them to slide on the 1/8 shafts and freely spin - I found that the tip of a small pair of needle-nose pliers worked well to chamfer the hole edge a little bit.