Rostock V2 warping print

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peterk
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Rostock V2 warping print

Post by peterk » Sun Mar 26, 2017 10:29 pm

I am experiencing warping issues when I print large flat surfaces (15x12cm).
Printing ABS at standard settings 228C nozzle, 80C bed. Using glue stick as recommended.

I have done so many calibration runs I can't count them. Is there a *precise* way to set the endstop height. I have been using the gcode snippet which relies on eyeballing the distance between bed and nozzle for each of the three towers. This only happens at one extreme corner of large surfaces but is enough to make these prints unusable.

Any ideas are most welcome.

Peter

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cristin
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Re: Rostock V2 warping print

Post by cristin » Mon Mar 27, 2017 2:17 am

is it the same extreme corner each time? is it in the exact same spot?
modded rostock max v2
driving it via astroprint.

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DeltaCon
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Re: Rostock V2 warping print

Post by DeltaCon » Mon Mar 27, 2017 7:41 am

Ideas are there a lot:
- use PEI for a bed (or ABS slurry)
- up the bed temp
- lower the print temp as much as possible
- choose a different filament
- built an enclosure

I guess it will always be hard to counter ABS warping issues. I tried all but the last idea. Next will be an enclosure. But I am sure that if I start printing higher objects the problem will return and perhaps an extra heater will be needed. ABS is far from ideal, but many people (including me) want it for the strength and outdoor durability.
I am DeltaCon, I have a delta, my name is Con, I am definitely PRO delta! ;-)
Rostock V2 / E3D Volcano / FSR kit / Duet 0.6

PS.: Sorry for the avatar, that's my other hobby!

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peterk
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Re: Rostock V2 warping print

Post by peterk » Mon Mar 27, 2017 1:43 pm

Thanks

I realize that there is no 100% way. I ended up setting Z height distance about 0.5mm closer to the bed and using a bit more glue stick on the affected corner and that worked fine.
What is ABS slurry?

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Re: Rostock V2 warping print

Post by Penged » Thu Mar 30, 2017 8:08 am

ABS slurry is ABS dissolved into acetone. It acts as a base layer painted onto your base plate to help with adhesion (and curling) of your first layer..
V2 max with the HE280 hotend

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peterk
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Re: Rostock V2 warping print

Post by peterk » Thu Mar 30, 2017 9:11 am

That sounds like a smelly idea but worth trying. Will it stick to the piece to be printed (like a raft?)

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Re: Rostock V2 warping print

Post by DeltaCon » Thu Mar 30, 2017 1:29 pm

No, the idea of slurry is to put an even thin layer on your bed. Just a few small parts in a jar with some acetone does it. It needs to stay watery liquid. When it dries out, it forms a layer of superglue for abs prints. It worked for me only after having sanded the glass bed a bit with fine grain paper. But it is messy as you already noticed. I prefer PEI now ;-) By the way: with a good calibrated first layer height I was able to get a very strong bonding on glass with Elmers disappearing purple glue stick as well. So I gave up on slurry pretty quickly...
I am DeltaCon, I have a delta, my name is Con, I am definitely PRO delta! ;-)
Rostock V2 / E3D Volcano / FSR kit / Duet 0.6

PS.: Sorry for the avatar, that's my other hobby!

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Re: Rostock V2 warping print

Post by peterk » Wed Apr 19, 2017 4:48 pm

I have some news about my warping problem that might be helpful.
After adjusting the end stop screws, redoing Z height over and over again and always getting warping in pieces that cover a big surface - always in one or more of the corners I went back to the basics and redid all my temperature calibrations as outlined in the Rostock operations manual.

After checking the hot end stuff I noticed that the values after running PID Autotune (M303 S200) were off substantially. I have done that calibration after building the printer. But that's been a while. After updating Kp, Ki and Kp values in the firmware I was rewarded with a fine solid print of what was before a warped piece.

Peter

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