Last week, I got some 2-conductor, 12-gauge speaker wire from Amazon for $17.95. I cut a length of it, and stripped about 2/3" of insulation off one end. I fanned out the individual strands so that they were flat, and then soldered them to the Onyx's solder pads. I figure fanning the strands out lets them make better contact. Then, I stripped about 1/4" of insulation off the other end of the cable and screwed it down into the green Molex plug. I also have an Auber SSR on the way (thanks for the recommendation, mhackney), and I will continue to use the 12-gauge wire with it once it gets here.
- Fatter gauge wire "fills" the Molex plug's receptacles more, allowing for a larger contact area - the wire, being thicker, is also able to conduct more heat away from the plug
- Heat sink is now SIGNIFICANTLY cooler, whether the Onyx is initially heating or holding temp (70C)
- With the old wires, the Onyx could only hover anemically around a max of 73C. With the old Viotek 450-watt power supply feeding the controller through two pairs of skinny wires, it took awhile, but I was able to achieve 90C! Haven't tried anything higher. I'm going to switch to a 350W "LED power supply" that will let me use whatever gauge of wiring I want (it has screw terminals), and I think it will probably get up to temp more easily.
I also replaced the somewhat weak 30-watt cartridge heater on my E3D Cyclops and V6es with these 40W ones. I had to wrap them in a little bit of aluminum to get them to fit properly. Both hot ends heat up more quickly now. I'm going to stop using the Cyclops because even with a 40W cartridge, the massive surface area on the heater block makes it too susceptible to heat loss from cooling fans. I'm also a little worried about not being able to trim excess aluminum foil inside the heater cartridge bore. The V6 has neither of these problems. It can get by with a 30W element, but who doesn't like a faster warm-up time and more resistance to part cooling fans? I will be using these cartridges from now on.