aluminum bed plate and 24v PSU

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fiddypal
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aluminum bed plate and 24v PSU

Postby fiddypal » Sun Apr 26, 2015 8:18 am

Are there any places that sell a premade aluminum plate for the rostock? Google has not been very helpful to find a source.

Also, is it possible to replace the PSU with a 24v one that will still fit inside the rostock?

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mvansomeren
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Re: aluminum bed plate and 24v PSU

Postby mvansomeren » Sun Apr 26, 2015 12:06 pm

This wasn't made specifically for any 3D printer but this is what I use and it works well:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271575080432?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

I put it between the Onyx and the glass. It really helps to evenly heat the glass. Of course, with a 12vpsu, it does take longer to heat, but the even heat distribution is worth it.
___________________________________________________
Proud owner and builder of the Rostock MAX V2
Corsair RM750 PSU, Stepper Motor Dampers, Stock Hotend.

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Jimustanguitar
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Re: aluminum bed plate and 24v PSU

Postby Jimustanguitar » Mon Apr 27, 2015 7:47 am


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mhackney
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Re: aluminum bed plate and 24v PSU

Postby mhackney » Mon Apr 27, 2015 8:27 am

That 1/16" 12" diameter aluminum disk is PERFECT for this application. At $12 I wouldn't hesitate to pick one or more up. Back in the day when I manufactured the 1/8" aluminum heat dissipator I had the idea that the aluminum should be screwed firmly down through the Onyx to keep it flat. That would be ideal and my printer is set up that way and it has worked perfectly for several years. But, in retrospect, if you are putting borosilicate on top AND if you make sure the bed is pretty near flat, a thin aluminum dissipator that just floats on the Onyx between it and the glass is a perfectly good solution and a lot less problematic. I took a bath refunding customers when the aluminum plates warped. 1/16" is thin enough to hold flat with binder clips.

As for power supplies, read my build thread. I replaced my supplies with a 12V and a 24V supply - both in the base. Now, several years later with the availability of 24V heater cartridges, etc, I could get rid of the 12V supply. I show how I mounted mine in the base, it can be retrofitted to a completed machine but is a lot easier during the build.

cheers,
Michael

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