RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby DerStig » Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:10 pm

mhackney wrote:That means that something is triggering the probe. Vibration, too sensitive or something else.



Solid red light on the end stop and no trigger light on the trinket at the start of the calibration. only when it hits the build plate. It's like its totally ignoring the trigger

Could the thermistors wires be swapped? I know that's important with the accelerometer probe on the HE280

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby mhackney » Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:14 pm

That would be important for this version too.

Correct behavior:

start of probe: LED on E0 endstop on Duet ON, LED on Trinket OFF
probe contact: LED on E0 endstop OFF, Trinket LED ON

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby dc42 » Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:33 pm

Before running auto calibration for the first time on a delta, I recommend that you increase the H parameter (dive height) in the M558 command in config.g to a large value, e.g. 20 (the units are mm). That means it will start probing 20mm above where it thinks the bed ought to be, which is a good idea when your M665 and M666 parameters are only approximate. Once you have auto calibrated successfully, you can run M665 and M666 with no parameters to see what the values are, copy them into config.g, and reduce the dive height back to around 3mm.

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby mhackney » Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:38 pm

Good catch David, I'll add that to my write up.

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby DerStig » Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:44 pm

Thermistor wires are correct and it seems that the trigger behavior is correct.

https://vimeo.com/197554172

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby mhackney » Fri Dec 30, 2016 8:37 pm

Are you sure you have the correct probe type for the M558 command? P4 if your adapter is connected to the E0 endstop, P5 if you are using the probe 4 pin connector. I have not seen that kind of probing behavior at all.

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby DerStig » Fri Dec 30, 2016 9:10 pm

Okay seems to be working now. The issue was the overall height of the printer it was set at 415mm. I brought the number down to 390 and I got it to calibrate.

Now a few other questions/issues.

How do you do an end stop calibration or is that no longer needed?

My first layer is WAY to smashed. how do I put a height offset in it?

Is Grid compensation enabled by default or do I have to do that myself? I did the auto calibration several times and it came down to a .08mm error.

Thanks for all the help!

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby mhackney » Fri Dec 30, 2016 9:16 pm

David's auto cal does everything - read about it on the gcode wiki. Here is my cheat sheet:

; About the G30 S parameter
; Used to specify what calibration computation to perform.
;
; S=-1 Don't adjust anything, just print the height error at each probe point and calculate the mean and deviation
; S=0 Equivalent to S=<number_of_points_probed>
; S=3 Adjust homing switch corrections only
; S=4 Adjust homing switch corrections and delta radius
; S=6 Adjust homing switch corrections, delta radius, and X and Y tower position offsets
; S=7 Adjust homing switch corrections, delta radius, X and Y tower position offsets, and diagonal rod length

end stop = homing switch

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby mhackney » Fri Dec 30, 2016 9:17 pm

G31 "Z" parameter is how you set the prone offset. I show how to determine this on my blog.

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby mhackney » Fri Dec 30, 2016 9:18 pm

Grid compensation is G29 but you need to set the grid first. For a delta, you use M557. So

M557 R140 S15 sets a 140mm radius with 15mm grid. Read about it on the gcode wiki or the Duet wiki.

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby DerStig » Sat Dec 31, 2016 9:19 pm

Beyond frustrated at this point.

I had everything working for the most part well. Went to do a bed grid probe and the printed head started to skip across the glass on probing. watched it happen and noticed that the effector was tilting on the probing like a woman falling off her high heels. started looking at the printer and noticed a loose belt. I rework the belts and while I'm at it change to the trick laser aluminum arm mounts on the trick trucks. Figure while I'm at it I'll switch over to the to the Trick Aluminum effector platform. Really nice and clean conversion and everything is nice and stiff.

Go to do an Autocal and then all hell breaks loose. the Print head is crashing into the bed. Try a few things and now it's probing in mid air.

WHAT

THE

HELL

I can't get this figured out. Someone please help. If you are in the Los Angeles area I'll pay you, buy you beer or liquor, give you filament whatever but I need some help from a Duet Expert.

Change to Duet they said, It will be fantastic and take care of your bed tilt issues they said.

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby trash80 » Sat Dec 31, 2016 9:54 pm

DerStig wrote:Beyond frustrated at this point.

Go to do an Autocal and then all hell breaks loose. the Print head is crashing into the bed. Try a few things and now it's probing in mid air.


Maybe a loose connection? (Edit: Or typo in your config) If you cannot figure it out I am in the LA area, North Hollywood to be exact.
Last edited by trash80 on Sat Dec 31, 2016 9:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby mhackney » Sat Dec 31, 2016 9:56 pm

Post your config.g and bed.g files.

The accelerometer probe is very sensitive to changes that affect rigidity and bed surface "hardness". It is unique compared to FSRs in this respect which are very forgiving. I'd like to see your files and then we can put together a plan of attack to configure for your system.

Also keep in mind, if you don't need to use grid compensation, don't. Do you have a reason to believe your delta needs it. My V3 doesn't and you can make things worse using it if not needed.

Of course tonight is not a great time for me to provide detailed help but post those files and we'll get at it tomorrow.

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby mhackney » Sat Dec 31, 2016 10:01 pm

Trash80 and I have been corresponding and collaborating in the background to really understand this probe. I have both his Teensy and my Trinkey interfaces working. The Teensy allows monitoring in real time to help profile and tune. I'm also talking to the application engineer at ST (the accelerometer manufacturer) and he's made some suggestions to reduce variability and forgiveness. But these things take a lot of time and effort. I have at least 80 hrs invested and plan to spend more experimenting.

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby DerStig » Sat Dec 31, 2016 10:23 pm

Trash80 and MHackney, You guys rock!

Trash80 I live up on the mountain in Burbank, I would love it if you could stop by and help.

Here are the Config and Bed.g files

Config.g.rtf
(3.5 KiB) Downloaded 27 times
Bed.g.rtf
(1.72 KiB) Downloaded 21 times


Looking forward to what you two have to say.

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby DerStig » Sun Jan 01, 2017 5:11 pm

Little more experimenting today. I had the probe input set wrong (it was P4 needed P5) but now I'm getting the printhead skipping on the build surface

Help!

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby Krinje » Sun Jan 01, 2017 5:34 pm

Well, that time of year, massive holiday upgrades all around. (This is for a v2, but 90% of whats here seems applicable) So, simple question, Included in the duet was the various connectors. Some of which are the ends that go into the blocks. I've never used them before, what is the correct way to use them? So far I'm assuming you simply strip it roughly to the length of the barrel and slide the wire in all the way and then crush the wire and termination in the block. Is that about right?

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby mhackney » Sun Jan 01, 2017 5:44 pm

Ok you found the first issue I noticed. Next you need to increase the M558 F value. Try 2400 mm/min. If you strike too slow it won't be recognized as a deceleration event. Arm flex, surface hardness and other factors affect this. The SeeMeCNC implementation is 5400mm/min but too fast comes with its own issues of inconsistent trigger heights. Increase F up to 5400 though and test in steps of 300.

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby Xenocrates » Sun Jan 01, 2017 5:51 pm

Krinje wrote:Well, that time of year, massive holiday upgrades all around. (This is for a v2, but 90% of whats here seems applicable) So, simple question, Included in the duet was the various connectors. Some of which are the ends that go into the blocks. I've never used them before, what is the correct way to use them? So far I'm assuming you simply strip it roughly to the length of the barrel and slide the wire in all the way and then crush the wire and termination in the block. Is that about right?


For the most part, no. If you're talking about the pin connectors, then you crush them with a crimping tool or a pair of needlenose pliers first, then slide it into the block. If you're talking about the screw terminals, you can either screw them down on a bare wire or add a ferrule which needs to be crushed by a 4/6/8 jaw crimper, designed for the ferrules in question, as a pair of pliers will give you an angled contact area. As far as I know, only a small handful of connector styles are designed to self crimp or have the block of alignment, and neither the Rambo nor duet Wifi use any of those.
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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby Krinje » Sun Jan 01, 2017 7:14 pm

Yes the ferrules, I'll skip them then. Thank you.

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby DerStig » Sun Jan 01, 2017 7:15 pm

So First I want to thank MHackney and Trash80 for thier help and suggestions.

I switched to Trash80's Teensy 3.2 and now it seems all is well. Total level error using the auto calibration is .05 and running the G29 bed leveling I get

Number of probe points: 193

Probe area: 615.8 cm²

Maximum deviations: -0.111 / 0.066 mm
Mean error: 0.031 mm

RMS error: 0.038 mm

So I think I'm pretty darn good to go!
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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby DerStig » Sun Jan 01, 2017 10:31 pm

YET! the nightmare isn't over.

Calibrates beautifully doing a g29 the height map is all green with a mean error of .031mm, 1/3 the thickness of a sheet of paper.

so why does the printhead print almost a 1mm low? Nothing is being extruded since the print head is so low. I simply dont understand how to fix that. with the Rambo I go into the eprom and just tell it what offset for the first layer. I just dont get how to do that and get it figured out on the Duet.

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby trash80 » Mon Jan 02, 2017 8:43 am

DerStig wrote:YET! the nightmare isn't over.

Calibrates beautifully doing a g29 the height map is all green with a mean error of .031mm, 1/3 the thickness of a sheet of paper.

so why does the printhead print almost a 1mm low? Nothing is being extruded since the print head is so low. I simply dont understand how to fix that. with the Rambo I go into the eprom and just tell it what offset for the first layer. I just dont get how to do that and get it figured out on the Duet.



trash80 wrote:- Finally you can reset the Duet and try the probe, you may need to add a offset to z probe offset after calibration to fine tune (I don't know why, maybe because my bed is sorta slightly flexible), I used G31 X0 Y0 Z-0.3 P500


Put your adjustment in config.g, I manually sent a Z movement to get the offset I needed, IE: G1 Z0.3

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby mhackney » Mon Jan 02, 2017 8:50 am

The procedure for auto calibration and generating the bed compensation height map is important.

1) auto calibrate
2) DO NOT HOME after auto calibration - anywhere, not in your bed.g script or any special "calibration" scripts you may have created
3) do the G29


In order to test this, do it stepwise - when you auto calibrate, do you get a good Z=0 after that? If not, you need to fix that first. Check the G31 "Z" offset value. This is EXTREMELY important to a) understand and b) set correctly.

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G31:_Set_ ... obe_status

For a procedure on how to determine it: http://sublimelayers.blogspot.com/2016/ ... -duet.html and scroll down to the "Postscript" section for details.

It is also important to carefully observe probing until you are certain that there is no significant flex in your system - in particular, the bed mounting. Watch the bed and hot end while probing. If you see them move, that's not ideal. A little movement - if it is consistent across all probe points - is acceptable.

And also, I don't think you answered my question about "why are you using grid compensation?" Do you have a real or perceived issue with your printer's calibration?

Finally, to set the Z height manually in RepRapFirmware can be done several ways but the M665 command's "H" parameter is the Z height that is important. You can simply issue this command in the console and tweak it to get it right or use the paper drag test. Once you have the value set, simply do an M500 to save it to the config-override.g or edit your config.g.

Do this:

First issue an M665. This will print the current "in use" values of M665 (not necessarily what's in config.g or config-override.g if you've manually tweaked them). Find the "H" parameter. You say you are 1mm too low, so do this:

M665 H"your old value"-1

Don't do the math in the command! If your old H was H449.22 then subtract 1 from that and execute M665 H448.22. Or use the paper snag test and subtract the Z head position (upper right corner on the Machine Control tab) from the H value.

I usually just do this manually as described above as I observe my first layer. It is much quicker for me to tweak this way then rerun auto calibration or use the paper test. That came with experience but it is very easy to learn.

Note, that in the next release of RRF - v 1.18 - there will be a baby stepping feature for dynamically tweaking the first layer thickness during a print. I have a set of macros for doing that but they are not as effective as what David is implementing.

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Re: RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

Postby mhackney » Mon Jan 02, 2017 8:52 am

What @trash80 is describing above is what I was referring to as the "paper drag test" to determine the Z offset the nozzle touches the bed. Then you use that to set M665.

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