Search found 717 matches

by Eric
Fri Sep 07, 2012 3:01 am
Forum: Troubleshooting
Topic: Temperature Teflon 4mm.
Replies: 3
Views: 1060

Re: Temperature Teflon 4mm.

Teflon is a brand-name for PTFE. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene The short answer is it doesn't actually melt until 327 C, but starts to degrade above 260 C. Keep your pet birds away from your printer meltdowns...apparently they're very sensitive to the degradation by-products.
by Eric
Thu Sep 06, 2012 5:24 pm
Forum: Rostock MAX
Topic: Rostock MAX is alive (almost)
Replies: 21
Views: 6066

Re: Rostock MAX is alive (almost)

johnoly99 wrote:Oh tim, you noticed our complaint dept. eh?

Bowden extruder, but using our "Steve's extruder" with a modification to use push-to-connect fittings


Which implies that eventually you will be able to offer a Bowden upgrade for any Steve's extruder, no matter what printer it's on?
by Eric
Wed Sep 05, 2012 5:55 pm
Forum: Rostock MAX
Topic: Rostock MAX is alive (almost)
Replies: 21
Views: 6066

Re: Rostock MAX is alive (almost)

As a concept, it has a lot of cool factor.

What are the pros/cons of this kind of 3-point positioning system compared to the more traditional XYZ approach?
by Eric
Tue Sep 04, 2012 11:46 pm
Forum: H-1.1 3D Printers
Topic: H-1.1 Extruder Tube?
Replies: 6
Views: 3128

Re: H-1.1 Extruder Tube?

Straight out of the H1-1 printer kit description: http://shop.seemecnc.com/H-11-3D-Printer-Kit-71698.htm We are also bringing you another first in the 3d printing world, a hot-end that can use either 1.75 OR 3mm filament! We send you the teflon liner to set it up either way, and simply unscrewing th...
by Eric
Tue Sep 04, 2012 11:34 pm
Forum: General Tips 'N Tricks
Topic: Hotend assembly tutorial
Replies: 15
Views: 4045

Re: Hotend assembly tutorial

I used lead free solder which in theory only melts at 280 and more. Most of your lead-free solders are going to melt in the neighborhood of 220 C. 60/40 lead solder melts around 190 C, so it is better than that. 10/90 solder (90% lead) should get you up to that 280 C temperature, if you can still f...
by Eric
Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:02 am
Forum: General Tips 'N Tricks
Topic: Hotend assembly tutorial
Replies: 15
Views: 4045

Re: Hotend assembly tutorial

The math isn't beyond me, but it'll be easier to just do empirical testing to calibrate the numbers for the thermal mass of a particular setup. All the software needs to know is what the temperature/time curve is supposed to look like when the heater is on. If the thermistor isn't seeing the tempera...
by Eric
Mon Sep 03, 2012 11:51 am
Forum: General Tips 'N Tricks
Topic: Hotend assembly tutorial
Replies: 15
Views: 4045

Re: Hotend assembly tutorial

Very useful as an intro, as I haven't gotten to that part yet. Wouldn't wire strippers work even better than a knife for removing silicone from wire? I'll be using ramps electronics, so I would think that a thermistor physically coming loose (unexpected sudden drop in temperature) would be detectabl...
by Eric
Sat Sep 01, 2012 5:21 pm
Forum: Troubleshooting
Topic: Table SubAssembly Screws
Replies: 7
Views: 1859

Re: Table SubAssembly Screws

It's a #4 sheetmetal screw with a #4 washer. You should have plenty of both in the kit.
by Eric
Sat Sep 01, 2012 4:57 pm
Forum: Parallel Port based boards
Topic: Alternative Driver board?
Replies: 3
Views: 10244

Re: Alternative Driver board?

That's ONLY a logic interface board, it's incapable of driving any kind of motor directly. The separate drivers for each motor are not included and need to be purchased to have a working solution.
by Eric
Sat Sep 01, 2012 2:26 pm
Forum: Troubleshooting
Topic: Table SubAssembly Screws
Replies: 7
Views: 1859

Re: Table SubAssembly Screws

For the H1-1, the only nuts used on the table assemblies are the captive locknuts for the adjustment bolts and the table attachment bolts. Everything else is screws. I just built it myself the other day. Don't forget the #4 washers also get used on both sides of each bearing...I was half-done before...
by Eric
Thu Aug 30, 2012 10:18 pm
Forum: Rostock MAX
Topic: What could we possibly be up to?
Replies: 12
Views: 3195

Re: What could we possibly be up to?

Well, there's the rout 'n twist that's in your store, but that's big bucks. Maybe a version of that cheap enough for hobby buyers?

A home filament extruder?

Or skip that and make a printer extruder designed to take cheap plastic pellets directly?
by Eric
Wed Aug 29, 2012 8:31 am
Forum: Rostock MAX Official Docs
Topic: H-1.1 input
Replies: 6
Views: 2206

Re: H-1.1 input

A section on mounting options/requirements for the heat bed.
by Eric
Wed Aug 29, 2012 6:25 am
Forum: H-1 3D Printers
Topic: Replacing the Z-Axis rods?
Replies: 13
Views: 6892

Re: Replacing the Z-Axis rods?

It occurs to me that your cheap rods might be swappable for the original 12" rods used in the base. A subtle bend would be far less critical there, especially in the horizontal axis, and nuts are only used near the ends of those rods. As for online sources, I'd ask Seemecnc first. I don't see i...
by Eric
Tue Aug 28, 2012 6:09 pm
Forum: Troubleshooting
Topic: Meltdown
Replies: 4
Views: 935

Re: Meltdown

Experimenting with the design is part of the fun for some people. So try it if you want to! Only minus I can think of is that your max build height will be reduced by however far you extend it. But I don't think the distance from the carriage had anything to do with this particular meltdown. From th...
by Eric
Tue Aug 28, 2012 5:49 pm
Forum: The Build Zone
Topic: How does one remove dampers from stepper motors?
Replies: 5
Views: 2636

Re: How does one remove dampers from stepper motors?

The danger of prying between gear and motor is that the stress on the bearing/internals of the motor risks damage. However, it's better than the hammer and punch approach that you might think of....that's almost guaranteed to hurt a small motor like this. I've not seen an automotive puller that woul...
by Eric
Sat Aug 25, 2012 6:03 pm
Forum: Troubleshooting
Topic: Extra units
Replies: 8
Views: 1568

Re: Extra units

I just received my kit today and counted everything into spare plastic parts boxes for the build. No mystery C-shaped object and no zip-ties of any size. Going off the parts lists, I have a few extras on all the sheetmetal screws, including a couple 1/2" screws that were in the 1" bag. A f...

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