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I can't say I ever 'finished' this printer, but its much closer

It's been printing away, lots of PETG(Inland branded esun from microcenter)

Here is a shot from Repetier Server's screenshot of my camera(Logitech C270)

If you're running Repetier firmware, I'd highly recommend Repetier server. I've been running it for at least a year now on my RADDS, its seamless integration, you can edit the eeprom as well as flash it right from the pi. It does appear that they've changed it to add a "Pro" version which ...

maybe consider looking at your ending script too... its probably retracting 10mm or something at the end of your print.

Have you tried asking their tech support?

Smoothieboard does a very poor job of motion control, while it seems like its doing a good job its cutting corners, firmware is incomplete and it can't handle high rates of code. Its Equally or more Smoothie's problem than it is S3D, S3D code will run just fine on every other piece of hardware out t...

Set your d to .1 and see how it holds. Too much d and it will fight itself

PID autotune is so poor on these controllers. I only ever use it to get a P value. I and D values work best around 0.1 in every situation I've dealt with on these machines, multiple machines, multiple controllers, 12 and 24v. One reason I really like repetier is the repetier host and server graph po...

This will be a little more familiar for most. One thing I see missing is the "View unanswered posts • View new posts • View active topics" buttons on top, another I like is "View your posts"

Other than cost, I don't know why anyone wouldn't run linear rails.

Never have to be adjusted
10000x more accurate
quieter
smoother
better
better
better

a few options:

too much heat
not enough cooling(either fans or printing speed adjustments via slicer settings)
printing too fast
printing too slow

What I'm saying is that if the existing solder is lead free, it'll be harder to melt. I used tin/lead when I soldered on mine. I have a quality solder station that had no problem. Cheap irons don't do well.

Any of the clones will have the same firmware issues I experienced. They do appear to be better laid out than the original(fucstercluck IMO).

I'd guess the solder issue is lead free solder which melts at higher temp than normal solder. I didn't have any issues soldering stuff on mine.

They appear to be out of stock.

I'm also absolutely disappointed I bought one as well. Its just sitting on the shelf now. I'm done with it. Arthurs attitude really killed it for me, anytime I reported a bug he blamed it on me or something I was doing, especially when it came to Simplify3d. The board can't handle the g-code, even t...

Stripping the anodizing will make everything smaller by the thickness of the anodizing. Re-anodizing will grow some back, but not more than .001" per side unless you ask for more - then it might be a custom batch. It still looks good stripped and re-anodized. I've done it many times.

It was until maybe a week ago, chrome on android - should have specified I suppose!

That is the problem, it automatically switches me to mobile when I want to be on the desktop site(on my phone). The "Request Desktop Site" also doesn't work. I don't wish to install another browser, I'd rather have to click 2 links to get back to where I want to be every time than use a di...

I'm the kind of guy who doesn't like mobile versions of websites, especially since I have one of those massive phones. Up until recently it worked great to run the desktop site, now every time I refresh the page it switches back to mobile. Was there an update that changed this that can be easily fix...

Its been a problem for me on the maxv2 as well, slicers don't matter, etc. Its always big on the left for some reason in the y dimension.

Save your gcode to a sd card, disconnect the usb, and print directly from the printer. Its the only 100% reliable way to do it.

Pei will grip too hard. Very difficult to remove. PVA as taulman prescribed is the best. Glue all and water mix

the only thing my E3DV6 is good for is ABS, it sucks with PLA and PETG. stock hot end is awesome with ABS and PLA, PETG prints close to same temp as ABS so it should work. honestly if you are never going to do other exotic filaments that need temps that would melt the PEEK section, just use the sto...

Mounting the steppers up top - if you place the controller up top too - you have a long run for the heated bed and thermistor (heavy cabling too) down to the bottom. That to me is a primary consideration as this heavy wire is harder to conceal and you should keep the length as short as possible. Th...

They have the mechanical properties listed and compared to abs, they look nothing alike. No more similar than abs to pla to petg.

If you don't see an email from me in the next couple days, remind me and I'll send you the plate design from my printer so you can use that to design laser cut enclosure mounting

No glass, aluminum. Aluminum plate will mount to the base, onyx will bolt to it.